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Comments
Unless it's damaged in some way it should work just fine.
Eqd Speaker Cranker clone
Monte Allums TR-2 Plus mod kit
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/60602/
We'd just be guessing!
I’m wonder if the socket on the Mac isn’t quite as mechanically well supported as it might be, needs a little extra stress/strain relief to keep things stable, and Bad Things happen when it wobbles…
On reflection, I suspect now that the problem is with the socket rather than the plug. I still have my old 2011 21.5” but couldn’t find out what was wrong with it.
That plastic bit pulls off ...it's only held on with 2 clips
I needed to change the 10amp fuse in the plug. I then tested the mains cable with a multimeter and it seemed fine. Reconnected everything and it is working perfectly. You chaps saved me £10 and a wasted cable
Not sure why Apple ships iMacs with 10 Amp fuses as standard, as none of the devices use more than 400W max. CPU.
https://support.apple.com/en-us/109513
A rule of thumb guide to selecting the correct fuse: 3 Amp fuse for appliances up to 700 Watts, 5 Amp fuse for appliances ranging from 700 to 1000 Watts,13 Amp fuse for appliances over 1000 Watts.
10 Amp fuses are available (as are 7 Amp) but are not standard in the UK.
I used 3 Amp mains fuses for iMacs, even in rooms full of them in educational settings
As you say, 3A should be fine.
R.
Eqd Speaker Cranker clone
Monte Allums TR-2 Plus mod kit
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/60602/
all things considered (and particularly since I was reusing the cable against the explicit advice of my computer repair man), I thought discretion would be the better part of valour, and I went with Apple’s recommended fuse value
You really should use a 3A.
Eqd Speaker Cranker clone
Monte Allums TR-2 Plus mod kit
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/60602/
Playing it on the overspecced but stil cautious side, a 5 Amp (or possibly 7 if you can't get a 5) fuse should do the job.
The PSU is essentially split into 2 parts. The first part is very simple, The mains is rectified and connected to the primary of a transformer via a MOSFET. There are other components related to power factoring and suppression but that’s essentially it for the high side.
The low side, the part which actually runs the iMac has all kinds of clever protection built-in and will refuse to pulse and thus start the power supply if any abnormal loads are detected from the computer.