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The community repair thread
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
The question really is - are any of those relays actually faulty? Pointless changing them if they're not. Have you measured the resistance across the coils on them ? If you have the part numbers, you will be able to find a diagram that shows what pins are what.
Basically with a relay you are looking at a few things.
The PCB footprint and pin layout
The voltage of the coil and wattage consumption
The physical switching config ... like double pole double throw etc and and which pins are active when the coil isn't energised.
The voltage and current rating of the relays contacts ... low voltage relay switching is generally big currents like 35 amps
All these needs to be the close or less for coil mW consumption, same or more for contact voltage and current
Easiest way to get out relay is get a bit of solid copper wire from a scrap piece bit of twin & earth or similar. Tin that piece with leaded solder and then bend and solder it to all the pins of the relay with leaded solder . Then with the relay faced down heat the copper wire and all 8 pins will heat together and the relay will drop out .
It didn't take long to spot the issue. These kind of high density connector headers are common on multi board assemblies but normally they are supported by posts and screws to keep them connected properly. Behringer must have decided this wasn't necessary and didn't bother with supporting one end. The odd thing is normally with decent headers there is a bit of latitude with movement as they are plated all the way through. With this cheap crap header it loses contact unless it's on true. Another odd thing is nothing can touch this board because it's internal, so this movement has happened with heat, vibration or maybe it was never fitted right at the factory.
If they had fitted a post at the end this wouldn't have happened. Absolute dogshit design
Here's a shot showing the whole assembly and the switch mode power supply on the left bolted into the casing.
Anyway I straightened up the header and all the dead outputs came back to life. I put some hot glue on the header to stop it moving.
I fixed our central heating boiler - it was making odd gurgling noises and shutting itself down with an error code on the temperature indicator. A quick Google suggested this is caused by a blocked condensate trap, so I had a look underneath and I could see the trap, which is a plastic upside-down dome held on with two clips. Release these and the trap comes off, along with a couple of pints of water - and yes, the trap is half full of grey residue. Washed all this out, refitted the trap and fired up again - all good. For a day. Then it goes off again. I wondered if more dirt had fallen down the flue and re-blocked it, but no, the water in it is now clean. But I was surprised how much water came out again… far too much just to fill the trap.
Then I realised that if there’s that much water, it’s not draining properly. The outlet pipe disappears off into the wall and goes who knows where - eventually to a main drain presumably - which is going to be a major problem if it’s blocked. But I realised that if I opened the junction where the boiler pipe joins it and connected a piece of tubing to the end, I could blow down it - at first, I felt a lot of resistance, then when I blew harder a sudden distant pop/whoosh and no resistance, so I’ve obviously blown an obstruction (probably more of the grey residue) out. Reassembled it and - this was a week ago now - it works perfectly.
Which was quite good timing given the weather today.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
As suspected, it turns out the rear of the rubber buttons have a conductive coat, which had worn off for the volume control on my AV receiver.
Options I found online were:
- pencil graphite (I guessed that) but with superglue underneath it
- Buying small adhesive conductive pads from amazon
- Conductive paint
I remembered I had some self-adhesive aluminum tape (as sold to seal Kingspan slabs together) that I used years ago to shield some amp cabs and guitar cavities. I cut a few small pieces, and it all works as new now, it may fall off one day, but will still be repairableMs C's wheelbarrow, well past 20 years old and rusty, the frame gone matt grey, grips long gone and the tyre went pop as I was shifting a flatbed truck's worth of firewood..
The bald guys who ran my local bike shop gave me that tip :