Seized Grub Screws In My Tele Knobs !

DrBob

I need to take the knobs off on my Tele. The nuts that hold the pots on have worked loose but I can't get the knobs off because the grub screws have seized.
I've had a go with the WD40 (cue army of dissenting voices telling me that WD40 is the worst thing I could possibly use) but no dice..

Sooo, any steers ? Soldering iron on the grub screws ? Plumbers freeze spray ? Kango hammer drill ?

Funkfingers

Are the screws slotted, Allen or some other "star" key format (as found on some Warwick basses)?

DrBob

Funkfingers said:

Are the screws slotted, Allen or some other "star" key format (as found on some Warwick basses)?

Old school slotted

ICBM

Tighten the nuts without removing the knobs if you can - it can usually be done unless there's no gap at all between the knob and the control plate.

The Hosco Guitar Cube will do it...

https://www.gluedtomusic.com/products/190/hosco-guitar-nut-cube

Or you can make a very thin spanner from some thin metal sheet that will be enough to work. Use a piece of thin card or paper as well so you don't scratch the control plate.

WD-40 is not the worst thing you could use but it's unlikely to be effective. To stand any chance you would really need penetrating oil, but the chances are even that won't work in my experience.

Bridgehouse

I find that the real issue here is getting enough purchase given the tools for those small slotted grub screws tend to be quite small. 

I have a driver with a right angled handle grip that takes small sized bits and can usually pry them loose with considerable effort (and swearing)

ICBM

Bridgehouse said:

I find that the real issue here is getting enough purchase given the tools for those small slotted grub screws tend to be quite small. 

I have a driver with a right angled handle grip that takes small sized bits and can usually pry them loose with considerable effort (and swearing)

What usually happens is that you have to push the screwdriver in really hard to stop it slipping and chewing up the slot, and then the knob suddenly spins round, resulting in the screwdriver burying itself in your other hand with the full force you were putting on it, and significantly more swearing.

Can you guess how I know this?

Bridgehouse

ICBM said:

Bridgehouse said:

I find that the real issue here is getting enough purchase given the tools for those small slotted grub screws tend to be quite small. 

I have a driver with a right angled handle grip that takes small sized bits and can usually pry them loose with considerable effort (and swearing)

What usually happens is that you have to push the screwdriver in really hard to stop it slipping and chewing up the slot, and then the knob suddenly spins round, resulting in the screwdriver burying itself in your other hand with the full force you were putting on it, and significantly more swearing.

Can you guess how I know this?

Ah, well now.. if space permits, turn to full on or full off. Position screwdriver so that it's applying a little pressure towards the end stop (either on or off) and get stuck in.

I find a bit of sudden jerking clockwise and and anti-clockwise followed by a big twist normal loosens it. 

Oh, and triflow really does help (unlike WD40)

Funkfingers

ICBM said:

Can you guess how I know this?

I know. 

Think positive. At least your flesh prevented any damage to the guitar under repair.

ICBM

Funkfingers said:

Think positive. At least your flesh prevented any damage to the guitar under repair.

True, and wiping the blood off polishes up a nitro finish quite nicely .

DrBob

ICBM said:

Bridgehouse said:

I find that the real issue here is getting enough purchase given the tools for those small slotted grub screws tend to be quite small. 

I have a driver with a right angled handle grip that takes small sized bits and can usually pry them loose with considerable effort (and swearing)

What usually happens is that you have to push the screwdriver in really hard to stop it slipping and chewing up the slot, and then the knob suddenly spins round, resulting in the screwdriver burying itself in your other hand with the full force you were putting on it, and significantly more swearing.

Can you guess how I know this?

The blood blister currently developing on the tip of my left index finger affords me a degree of insight on this ....

Gagaryn

If you haven't already tried I would try the soldering iron on the screw - its worked for me in the past.

Funkfingers

DrBob said:

WD40 

ICBM said:
penetrating oil

Clue is in the name, folks.

WD40 is a water dispersant. Any rust cracking effects are purely coincidental.

Penetrating oil is used in numerous mechanical engineering applications. It is excellent on big items such as flange bolts. Grub screws of 1/16th" diameter may not present enough surface area for the oil to get between the fused metal surfaces.

streethawk

When I started ageing tele knobs I accidentally welded a few grub screws in. I never managed to get one particularly stubborn one off. Bent two allen keys. 

The defeat still bothers me. 

impmann

ICBM said:

Bridgehouse said:

I find that the real issue here is getting enough purchase given the tools for those small slotted grub screws tend to be quite small. 

I have a driver with a right angled handle grip that takes small sized bits and can usually pry them loose with considerable effort (and swearing)

What usually happens is that you have to push the screwdriver in really hard to stop it slipping and chewing up the slot, and then the knob suddenly spins round, resulting in the screwdriver burying itself in your other hand with the full force you were putting on it, and significantly more swearing.

Can you guess how I know this?

Amen!

I have a cross shaped scar on my left hand index finger pad caused by sticking a pozi-drive screwdriver through it trying to get a (different) fixing undone... the afternoon before a festival gig... that was a painful one.

All I can add to this in terms of advice is sometimes tightening them first breaks any rust/grot build up. Another trick is to get a high powered soldering iron - modify the tip into a screwdriver tip (a file/linisher/grinder helps) and heat the screw up. The heat can break the seal - but be wary of damaging the pot. I had to do this on some equipment that had threadlock applied to some of the screws (for touring, stopping stuff from coming loose) but sadly they hadn't checked the label on the bottle... as some threadlock is permanent stuff. This was a bitch of a job...

Rocker

Remove the control plate. Use a hacksaw to cut the pot off at the back of the plate. Fit new pot and knob(s).

Minimal risk to your fingers and guitar finish.

DrBob

I’ve actually managed to get the knobs off by pulling at them really hard ! Grub screws are borked though 

Bridgehouse

DrBob said:

I’ve actually managed to get the knobs off by pulling at them really hard ! Grub screws are borked though 

I'm surprised the pots didn't disintegrate as you did it!

DrBob

Bridgehouse said:

DrBob said:

I’ve actually managed to get the knobs off by pulling at them really hard ! Grub screws are borked though 

I'm surprised the pots didn't disintegrate as you did it!

Me too if I’m honest !