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Its entirely possible the blue is sitting on top of the red (totally separate layer).
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seen lots of examples where gentle slow sanding has got people back down to the original finish beneath a layer of amateur refins.
in case it is nitro beneath I would stay clear of using a chemical stripper, even acetone as it would probably remove the original paint too.
had a vintage hagstrom Viking I was never sure if it was nitro - didn’t have any crazing etc which I always thought was weird for such an old guitar
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If it's urethane/two-pack the rattle-can paint will wipe off with celly thinners without harming the underlying colour or clearcoat - don't use acetone. And don't try that if the underlying paint is nitro/celly..
Go quite wet at first to get the worst off, well-cured urethane/two-pack is very inert but still don't hang about long with the wet rag stage just in case. Then damp rags to mop up the last little bits, under a good strong light you'll see the straggler bits. Damp cloth to finish then a polish.
Very messy smelly unpleasant ol' job but do-able. Mask, gloves, ventilation etc.
You should, once the colour has been removed, be able to further wet sand the original finish to a nice shine then buff
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I really don't see how sanding is going to be practical, 1k is horrible to sand and the danger of going through on an edge, plus having to polish the whole body after. Loads of work. If it is 2k/urethane underneath the thinners wipe works fine, I've done it 2-3 times, it is unpleasant but much less impact on the thing.
With the age of this one (early 70s?) it could be old polyurethane, or nitro (both affected by thinners), or urethane/2k, which normally doesn't care about thinners.
I was going to suggest testing in a discreet area too. its the only way to be sure
I have successfully stripped a few amateur refinishes with stripper and thinners, but in these cases being able to keep the original finish was a bonus I wasn't expecting
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If not nitro it could in theory at least still be polyurethane which isn't solvent safe - though looking at pics they do have the look of 2k clear / aka urethane, which is all but safe - different beast despite name similarity. Still, test a bit before going full at it.
Re dinks I should say if its clear-over-base (clearcoat over base colours), and dinks crack right through the clearcoat, avoid sloshing solvent around those because that underlying colour is solvent based and will surrender quickly.
@timhulio Don't suppose you have a pile of spare parts?
Pickups, pickup rings and knobs.
It should wipe off but for the bare wood dinks, the dissolved stuff would stain that unless you sealed those first really carefully. Wonder why someone'd do that, it's covered the logo up ..