Paddle headstock

Harrisonmp123

Hi there,

I have recently decided that I will build an electric guitar.  It's nothing serious really, just a little project, but I would still like to do a good job.  I'll cut to the chase, would a headstock as shown in the link be suitable to cut for a slotted headstock.  I was thinking of going for something like those seen on B&G little sister guitars, if you are familiar with them.  Is this viable using something like this?  Could those of you with some more experience than me provide some guidance?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kmise-Electric-Headstock-Unfinished-Replacement/dp/B0151AWG9G#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

I have a fair amount of experience in working with wood and plenty of tools, router, drills, etc etc 

Thanks in advance,

Harrison 

Funkfingers

It will be physically to cut the slots in the paddle headstock. The critical issue is achieving the appropriate break angle between the nut slots and the machineheads. Rickenbacker seems to manage this on their twelve string guitars.

Harrisonmp123

Funkfingers said:

It will be physically to cut the slots in the paddle headstock. The critical issue is achieving the appropriate break angle between the nut slots and the machineheads. Rickenbacker seems to manage this on their twelve string guitars.

Yes I have seen the rickenbackets slotted headstocks, I will have to do some research into the break angle then.  Thanks, H

ICBM

Yes, it will be fine - if it's slotted, by definition the machineheads will be below the level they would be if mounted conventionally and so there will be enough break angle, even on the D and G heads since you can do that with staggered-height heads for the E and B on a standard Fender 6-in-line head.

GluedtoMusic

One thing to check is that the thickness of the headstock is wide enough for the tuners, the base plate on slotted headstock tuners tend to be fairly wide, and the side profile picture of that neck makes the headstock look relatively thin.

Harrisonmp123

Thanks both.  Yes that is something I also noticed GluedtoMusic.  I will be using individual tuners rather than 3-on-a-plate but it still looks pretty thin right?. I'll have to compare the specs when picking out tuning keys.   Thanks again,  I'll make sure to post some pics when I get started.  

Harrisonmp123

Do you think it would be viable to add a solid piece on top of the headstock, like a thicker veneer, adding a bit more width and thus allowing for a bit more room to put the tuners on the side?  It seems like it would work, am I missing any obvious pitfalls in that plan?

GluedtoMusic

You could, but the curved transition from the headstock face to the end of the fretboard makes gluing a veneer more complex, you need to find a clamping caul that will accurately mould to that curve.

Also the trussrod adjustment access hole is within that curve, so you would need to know the location of the hole so it can be reopened once the veneer is glued (you could drill a pilot hole in the veneer that you locate over the access hole during glued), you also need to be careful not to fill the access hole with glue (either wax it or put masking tape/news paper in the hole).

Harrisonmp123 said:

I will be using individual tuners rather than 3-on-a-plate 

Individual tuners for slotted headstocks still tend to have fairly wide base plates.

ICBM

Rickenbacker use either Kluson reissues or Schaller M6 Minis. The Klusons are better because the Schallers can't be fitted with their threaded collars so they have to rely on being secured with only one screw, and can work it loose. (And the Klusons are much lighter.)

paulnb57

Why not increase the thickness of the headstock from the back?