soldering and pickups - is there a good/better way ?

JookyChap

No worries, I just have a deep-seated need to divest myself of all things I won't use in the next hour...

I drink a lot of water just to avoid any unfortunate Wu-Tang style impulse decisions

guitargeek62

I just installed a set of pickups and added some of those bullet connectors to my wiring loom... why have I not done this before?! They're awesome!

ROOG

I've not run out of lead based solder yet so I know not of these worries. I did read some where that properly crimped gold connections are better, I.e. Lower resistance than soldered. I would solder and use heat shrink, good prep, lots of heat and work quickly, don't dawdle

imalone

ROOG;260670" said:

I've not run out of lead based solder yet so I know not of these worries.



I did read some where that properly crimped gold connections are better, I.e. Lower resistance than soldered.



I would solder and use heat shrink, good prep, lots of heat and work quickly, don't dawdle

Slightly lower, but you wont be able to tell with a guitar, wiper resistance in the pots is probably higher.

ICBM

Probably lower than the tiny resistance of the cable too - which itself is irrelevant. You're connecting a source impedance of tens of k-ohms to a load impedance of hundreds of k-ohms - even a whole ohm would make no audible difference whatever, and a soldered connection is never going to have anything like that much.

But more importantly, a properly done soldered joint is a continuous metal junction which is immune to corrosion, so it's still the best method.

OilCityPickups

ICBM said:

Probably lower than the tiny resistance of the cable too - which itself is irrelevant. You're connecting a source impedance of tens of k-ohms to a load impedance of hundreds of k-ohms - even a whole ohm would make no audible difference whatever, and a soldered connection is never going to have anything like that much.

But more importantly, a properly done soldered joint is a continuous metal junction which is immune to corrosion, so it's still the best method.

I'll second that!

nickp

just bought some

ecc83

I had to use Pbfree solder when working on new equipment but reverted to lead 60/40 for "lash ups and lab leads. And yes, the first batch of lead free I got to work with was bloody useless! "Puddingy" was the phrase I used. I soon got some better stuff all was well.

The Weller magnastat pencils are supplied with a #7 bit which IMHO is barely hot enough for lead! I used a screwdriver tip. about 2mm across, #8 for 90% of my work but had a #9 chunky 6mm job for heavy work like cans and PCB switches. You have to be careful with a #9 tip however because the temperature is close to paper's ignition point! I also had a #8 V fine conical tip for %$%***!! SM work.

Some soldering tips (ha!) gleaned from years of exp' and the boffs at Weller.

Do not clean a tip with a damp sponge. Use brass wool or (as I do) Plenty.

Do not put a tip away dirty. Clean it, flood it with solder, shake off excess, switch off. This is especially important for Pbfree kit.

NEVER! Use a file or any other abrasive on a tip. You will just go thru' the iron plating and bugger it. You can buy a small tin of tip cleaner but even this is very aggressive so only use in extremis. You won't need it if you keep the tip clean as indicated.

Turn the fekkin' thing OFF!! Modern thermostatic irons reach working temp' in less than a minute so don't let it "cook" while you make the tea or pee.

ICBM and I have (I think?) come to agree to differ about the relative merits of crimp and solder connections. Personally I find "good practice" is good practice whatever system you use and there will always be horses for courses.

If anyone is REALLY stuck for couple of mtrs or so of 0.7mm 60/40 PM me and I will post you some.

Dave.

ROOG

At home, soldering is the universal 'always in stock' solution, equally I can see why industry like crimped and gold plated connectors.

Spotted some nifty aerospace connector design featured in April's New Electronics mag. Based on a hyperboloid!.

 If I can figure out how to post a picture i'll do it.

ROOG

Hyperboloid connector

juansolo

There is absolutely nothing phallic about that at all...

ICBM said:

But more importantly, a properly done soldered joint is a continuous metal junction which is immune to corrosion, so it's still the best method.

Continuous Metal Junction would make an awesome band name.