Changing string guage

thomasw88

Just bought a cheap vintage strat that I would like to convert to use for slide. It has been set up for 9's strings and I would like to put on a heavier set of 12's to use. As its quite a hike in difference would appreciate some advice on steps to do to change/check when I change the strings.

ICBM

To do it properly you will need to widen the nut grooves, adjust the truss rod and add more spring tension to the bridge unless it's already as tight down as it will go, probably with five springs.

But if you just want to try it first, you probably don't have to do anything - if the strings don't fit right down into the nut grooves and the neck bows forward, and even if the bridge rises up, those are actually good things if you want to play it for slide.

I would put the new strings on and see what - if anything - needs changing at that point.

richardhomer

Firstly I'm not convinced you need to go as heavy as a set of 12s for slide. 10s or 11s might be a better compromise, as even on a guitar set up for slide you are likely to want to play it conventionally as well, particularly for chords - even if you are only barring in an open tuning. It is unlikely that the nut slots would be cut wide enough to accommodate 12s and widening them requires specialist files and a degree of skill - or handing the guitar over to a pro.

Does the guitar have a trem? If so, given that you are likely to swap tunings, it probably makes sense to immobilise it. Remove the cover from the back of the cavity, make sure there are five springs in and tighten the trem claw to pull the bridge plate down firmly on the top of the guitar.

Next re-string the guitar with your preferred gauge of string and tune to pitch.

Check the neck relief by placing a capo at the first fret and holding the bottom string down where the neck meets the body. You are looking for a gap between the bottom of the bottom E string and the top of the 7th/8th fret of around 10-15 thousands of an inch. With big strings, I would aim towards the upper end of the range. If relief is greater than this (which it may well be with heavier strings), tighten the truss rod (turn it clockwise). An eighth of a turn at a time is sensible, then recheck.

Then set the action by (most probably) raising the bridge saddles. You don't need a crazily high action for slide and again, you may well want to retain the option of fretting chords. A couple of millimetres at the twelfth fret is a reasonable level on the top string.

Once you are happy with the action, set the intonation using an electronic tuner, holding the guitar in its playing position. The fretted note at the twelfth fret should be the same pitch as the harmonic at the twelfth fret. If the fretted note is sharp, you need to adjust the saddle backwards, if the fretted note is flat, you need to shorten the string length by adjusting the saddle forwards towards the neck.

Once this is done, adjust the pick-up heights (fretted at the last fret I recommend a gap of about an eight of an inch on the bass side and slightly less on the treble - you may want to go closer with the bridge pick-up).

Make sure you use the right tools - in particular Allen (or 'hex') keys MUST fit properly, to avoid chewing things up. Likewise cross-head screw drivers.

Summarising how to do a full set up in one post isn't that straight-forward. I hope this is sufficient to get the guitar sorted out for your needs.

Corvus

11s are likely to fit without needing the nut working. Or you could skip the issue altogether and try one of those slip-over nut things meant for slide. like this

Could make a wooden wedge to lock the trem, save playing with springs etc and keeps your current setting intact.

AxeWieldingBastard

Nice post Richard :-bd

richardhomer

AxeWieldingBastard;252894" said:

Nice post Richard :-bd

Thank you.