questions about getting solid even colours with Wudtone

andypwudtone

When using solid colour ( both dye and pigment) based kits, both the condition of the surface of the wood and application of the finish will have a bearing on how quickly and easily you will achieve a solid colour. Of course that assumes you want to have a solid colour. Many customers who have used Wudtone with lovely wood stop at a ” Mary Kaye” style , level of translucency with the same dye and pigment based kits.

However if you are aiming for a solid colour the darker pigment based colours require more thickness of finish on the wood to get a solid colour ( and also the finish will take longer to really cure hard etc).
The technique described in this post http://www.wudtone.com/forum/?topic=new-lady-teal-colour-plus-tip-when-using-pigment-based-kits is the best way we have found to build the thickness quicker and so get a nice even solid colour. Bear in mind that the finish will take longer to cure to its hardest etc because it is thicker. kind regards

WezV

Does the same apply to getting a nice even and rich colour with the darker translucents?

really needs to be written into the instructions too.

 

I would also consider labelling the bottles 1, 2 & 3  or A, B & C in order of application.   I know I did mine in the right order but when it was not working I found myself I re-reading the instructions a few times on the assumption I had the base coat and deep colour base coat the wrong way round 

ThePrettyDamned

WezV;393861" said:

Does the same apply to getting a nice even and rich colour with the darker translucents?really needs to be written into the instructions too. I would also consider labelling the bottles 1, 2 & 3  or A, B & C in order of application.   I know I did mine in the right order but when it was not working I found myself I re-reading the instructions a few times on the assumption I had the base coat and deep colour base coat the wrong way round 

I tried with translucents and I'll say no, it just makes a messy finish.

The key (I know you had no luck) is to sand to 220 grit and really work it into the wood.

That said, some wood just doesn't seem to like it - I've been lucky so far, but I know that you know how to sand properly! Maybe you had all the bad luck.

If you fancy trying it again, even on scrap, I have some spare black deep colour coat. It won't go black per se, it's more a very dark grey/black (think prs Tremonti). I tested it on my pine body and, although not the colour I'll use, it took very well and was very dark. Contrast with my alder p - bass with the same kit that went a lovely deep antique poo brown colour! (genuinely love it, was going to be a solid finish but loved it enough to not bother).

I'll happily post it your way, along with any other spare deep colours I have. Just drop me a pm if you fancy it.

WezV

Thanks for the offer but I am going to stick with things I know work for me for a little while.  At least with finishes.

i did do some tests on different woods after my last failed attempt

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/temporary_zpsc6b8fd9c.jpg

that's swamp ash, alder and maple.  i got better results in one coat on these off cuts than i did on  the actual guitars these colours where intended for

And Andy did offer me a free set back when i was having issues

ThePrettyDamned

Fair enough.

It is odd - some people seem to get very unlucky and have a bit of wood that just doesn't like it. No idea why.

My alder bass didn't, technically.

andypwudtone

the conclusion is always the same, it is not the wood , it is not the finish. It is the prep/condition of the surface of the wood which is the link between the two etc and the application. Tried and tested instructions the world over by thousands here, http://www.wudtone.com/forum/?forum=wudtone-instructions ,  kind regards 

TTony

andypwudtone said:

 it is not the wood , it is not the finish. It is the prep/condition of the surface of the wood.

I was going to disagree with that when I got the full stop.  But then I think I agree when I read the next sentence (if I'm interpreting it correctly)

andypwudtone said:

The link between the two etc and the application.

My experience with my red Tele was that my application technique was largely at fault, rather than the preparation of the wood, or the wood itself.  After a failed attempt, then a rub-back and a second failed attempt, I ended up taking 0.5mm off the top of the guitar (a very aggressive rub-back!) and trying a third time - which worked.

The wood was the same throughout (Ash) and hadn't been pre-treated in any way.  For the second failure, I probably hadn't rubbed back far enough.  By the third go. I'd worked out  better application technique.  

Best way to learn is to try, make mistakes, work out the cause, and then try again.  (And then again, in my case!).

Others have had different experience, and it makes sense that both the condition of the surface and the type of wood will be factors in how the stain takes.  

FWIW, I agree with @WezV re the instructions.  Might be worth getting them reviewed / revised by someone who isn't as intimately connected with the product?  When you know everything about a product, it's easy to overlook some basic instructions for people who are brand new to the product, or - worse still - assume that it will work in a similar way to a completely different product that they do have experience of!

andypwudtone

TTony said:

andypwudtone said:

 it is not the wood , it is not the finish. It is the prep/condition of the surface of the wood.

I was going to disagree with that when I got the full stop.  But then I think I agree when I read the next sentence (if I'm interpreting it correctly)

andypwudtone said:

The link between the two etc and the application.

  Might be worth getting them reviewed / revised by someone who isn't as intimately connected with the product?  When you know everything about a product, it's easy to overlook some basic instructions for people who are brand new to the product, or - worse still - assume that it will work in a similar way to a completely different product that they do have experience of!

@TTony are you a candidate for this service ?

davedave

@andypwudtone I've used your kits a few times. I've got a good few bodies in need of finishing too. I'd be up for helping. Pm me if you fancy a natter.

TTony

andypwudtone said:

TTony said:

andypwudtone said:

 it is not the wood , it is not the finish. It is the prep/condition of the surface of the wood.

I was going to disagree with that when I got the full stop.  But then I think I agree when I read the next sentence (if I'm interpreting it correctly)

andypwudtone said:

The link between the two etc and the application.

  Might be worth getting them reviewed / revised by someone who isn't as intimately connected with the product?  When you know everything about a product, it's easy to overlook some basic instructions for people who are brand new to the product, or - worse still - assume that it will work in a similar way to a completely different product that they do have experience of!

@TTony are you a candidate for this service ?

@andypwudtone - apologies for not replying, I'd missed your comment.

Are you asking whether I'd review and propose amendment to your instructions?  If so, then yes.