Neck finishing for idiots.

Megii

In my case, I use the wire wool just to smooth back the finish between coats, not really what I'd call buffing - the coats are already applied very thinly, but the wire wool helps to get the surface as smooth as possible prior to applying the next coat, and also can remove any little "nibs" of built up Tru Oil that one sometimes finds, or if a dust grain gets on. So it's basically apply the Tru Oil, allow to cure, smooth back with the wire wool, clean with naptha, apply another coat of Tru Oil etc. etc. I would think maybe only 3 or 4 coats needed for a neck. It can be just a little tricky getting that perfect final coat on, but the beauty of Tru Oil is you can always take things back with wire wool and try again if needed. Also as I say, you may need a bit more oil for the first coat, as it will soak into the wood a little.

After the last coat is on and well cured - actually I'd leave it a week or more - you could try buffing a bit by hand, just using a piece of copy paper, if you think it needs it (I did that with my Wudtone finished neck). Have to say I defer to WezV in all of this stuff though, just saying what seems to have worked out well enough for me in the past.

Loobs

Thanks. How do you go about working around the frets?

Deadman

I don't know what everyone else does but I just spray over them and scrape off afterwards. Masking is to be avoided if spraying in my opinion.

Megii

Loobs said:

Thanks. How do you go about working around the frets?

Afraid that's not one I've ever had to do, not having finished an all maple neck, so can't really offer any massive advice. Although I do think going for really thin coats of Tru Oil will help, and just applying in small amounts carefully by hand.

Worth asking Wez re this one though I reckon.

Loobs

Deadman;451339" said:

I don't know what everyone else does but I just spray over them and scrape off afterwards. Masking is to be avoided if spraying in my opinion.

Scrape off with your old mate Stanley?

WezV

This is where the wetsanding won't really work so well.

Just rub the stuff in, leave it a couple of minutes and buff it all off/ cut back with wire wool every few coats. Fret boards don't benefit from being as sleek as the back of the neck, of at least, the frets should be sleek rather than the board which can just be sleek enough

The wire wool will take any residual oil off the frets. Scraping is for lacquer

Loobs

Cheers. Which grade of paper should I use/start with for the final wet sand before oiling?

Thanks for being such a great help.

Deadman

Loobs;451369" said:

[quote="Deadman;451339"]I don't know what everyone else does but I just spray over them and scrape off afterwards. Masking is to be avoided if spraying in my opinion.

Scrape off with your old mate Stanley?[/quote]

Ouch! Sharpened tufnol for this job.

Sambostar

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360518192522?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Like Gorilla Glue, it is getting more commonly available now.

I rubbed on, let dry, 00 and 0000 wire wool, then repeated a few times.

I am sure there must be something on gun forums or somewhere about tinting Tru Oil.

Sambostar

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5nXwKROhZg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCMNqL5laEg

'For ambering using artists oils, try Cadmium Yellow Hue, only using a very small amount. Or, Yellow Ochre, or Raw Sienna. Look at them in the store, and select one to test. Pick up a piece of Maple, sand it to 220, then start with a few very thin coats. If the test board comes out the coloring you are after, then apply it to the neck. Coat it several times with uncolored tru-oil afterwards to lock the color in, and then lightly scuff it with 0000 steel wool to smooth it out for playing.'

WezV

I have tinted it with wood stains, the results of which can be seen in the thread I linked to.

Never managed primary colours with it though

ICBM

Sambostar said:

I am sure there must be something on gun forums or somewhere about tinting Tru Oil.

Try asking on TGP, they're bound to know.

Loobs

Sambostar;451480" said:

'For ambering using artists oils, try Cadmium Yellow Hue, only using a very small amount. Or, Yellow Ochre, or Raw Sienna. Look at them in the store, and select one to test. Pick up a piece of Maple, sand it to 220, then start with a few very thin coats. If the test board comes out the coloring you are after, then apply it to the neck. Coat it several times with uncolored tru-oil afterwards to lock the color in, and then lightly scuff it with 0000 steel wool to smooth it out for playing.'

I'm not so sure about that guy's methods.

Loobs

WezV;451523" said:

I have tinted it with wood stains, the results of which can be seen in the thread I linked to.

Never managed primary colours with it though

Wood stains are all I'll be doing.

Loobs

Anyone know where I might be able to buy a smaller piece of maple to practise on first?

jd0272

Tinted nitro matey. 

Less piss fart on with Tru Oil admittedly tho. Never used the oil as yet, will probably get around to it.

Loobs

Too late, already ordered it. Spraying nitro scares me.

jd0272

Loobs said:

Too late, already ordered it. Spraying nitro scares me.

Either way, it'll turn out fine. The feel of the oil is meant to be lovely.

Nitro's a right old pain in the arse as you're at the behest of the humidity, I'm STILL trying to get my three completed    @Deadman is sorted as he's fully equipped. The git  

WezV

Loobs;451658" said:

[quote="WezV;451523"]I have tinted it with wood stains, the results of which can be seen in the thread I linked to.

Never managed primary colours with it though

Wood stains are all I'll be doing.
[/quote]
I think I used an antique pine for the amber one, Jacobean oak
for the greyer one which was mimicking the colour a raw neck goes.

The amber also had some walnut stain applied and sanded back before the tinted oil just to make the grain a bit dirtier

Deadman

jd0272;451696" said:

Loobs said:

Too late, already ordered it. Spraying nitro scares me.
I




Either way, it'll turn out fine. The feel of the oil is meant to be lovely.

Nitro's a right old pain in the arse as you're at the behest of the humidity, I'm STILL trying to get my three completed  :(  @Deadman is sorted as he's fully equipped. The git  :)

=;