Fret Slot Cutting Accuracy

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Just about to tackle the fretboard on my first build. The various guides I've looked at for positioning accuracy go to three decimal points of a millimetre. While I will of course try to be accurate and will check and recheck, in the real world what sort of accuracy would people expect to be able to achieve given the need to draw a line and then make a cut within such tolerances; the margins for error seem huge.

What degree of accuracy makes a real difference, and what do you guys achieve in reality?

Simon
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Comments

  • SporkySporky Frets: 28173
    I'm at 0.025mm accuracy. Assuming the wood doesn't expand or contract, at least.

    Realistically I think you need to be better than 1/4mm, which is doable by hand with a decent hand mitre saw arrangement.
    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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  • GSPBASSESGSPBASSES Frets: 2349
    tFB Trader
    I would strongly recommend you pay for a per-slotted board as you could spent lots of time and money on the build only to spoilt buy a inaccurace fingerboard!

    Your life will improve when you realise it’s better to be alone than chase people who do not really care about you. Saying YES to happiness means learning to say NO to things and people that stress you out.

    https://www.facebook.com/grahame.pollard.39/

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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    I agree pre-slotted is a good idea for a first, although its not what i did

    I tend to switch between pre-slotted and doing it myself depending on woods and scale length required.  Just like i sometimes buy necks in rather than build if its a fairly standard style of neck i need

    buying pre-slotted can be quite limiting, especially if you want to get creative, but it does save a lot of time (even now i have proper slotting and radiusing jigs)

    on my first few I did it by hand with little more than a square a japanese saw.  I did have a nice vernier and some good steel rules i had been given.  Measure, measure again, measure a few more times, score, check again against fret to fret and fret to nut position and finally saw, then check to see is your slot is actually in the right place.   its not quick and it probably works out more economical to buy pre-slotted ... but i was glad i did it by hand and everything worked out ok.  Happy that I knew I could hand slot a perfectly fine fretboard that plays in tune (as much as any other guitar) and it was another element of guitar building where i was free to do what i want rather than rely on pre-made parts.  

    now if only I could get some pre-slotted fanned fret boards as the hand measuring and cutting on those really does take an age.   every time I do it I think about the jig that would make it easier, but never quite get around to building it


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  • GSPBASSESGSPBASSES Frets: 2349
    edited October 2013 tFB Trader
    I make pre-slotted fan fret fingerboard, in four types two guitars one at 28" to 24.5" with the 6th fret perpendicular and a 28" to 24.5" with the 12th fret perpendicular this one is so the pickups and bridge are not at a extreme angle. Plus two bass boards at 36" to 34" and 30" to 27.5".

    These scale lengths can be different depending on were you put the centre line.

    Your life will improve when you realise it’s better to be alone than chase people who do not really care about you. Saying YES to happiness means learning to say NO to things and people that stress you out.

    https://www.facebook.com/grahame.pollard.39/

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  • dean2371dean2371 Frets: 139
    thanks for the helpful advice. I figure in for a penny, so I'll have a go at making a fretboard taking it nice and slow. If it all goes wrong i can always buy a pre-slotted one for the next attempt.
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  • octatonicoctatonic Frets: 33797
    Slotting the board is one of my favourite things.
    The Stew Mac Japanese kerf saw is great as it cuts on the pull.
    Much easier to get it right.
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  • axisusaxisus Frets: 28337
    Obvious comment, but make sure you measure them all from the start and not each from the previous one!


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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    GSPBASSES said:
    I make pre-slotted fan fret fingerboard, in four types two guitars one at 28" to 24.5" with the 6th fret perpendicular and a 28" to 24.5" with the 12th fret perpendicular this one is so the pickups and bridge are not at a extreme angle. Plus two bass boards at 36" to 34" and 30" to 27.5".

    These scale lengths can be different depending on were you put the centre line.
    I am after a couple of 25.5"-27" boards with the perp around the 6th fret.   Not after a massive fan or much extra width, this is purely for a bit of extra tension on the low strings for the fanned fret 9-string (double course on high strings) acoustic builds I am planning for next year.  also a possible 5(or 8)string version of the same thing     if you can do that i am certainly interested in purchasing a couple of (ebony) boards... i do keep meaning to ask you about a couple of LP junior style semi built necks, long tenon, rough carved, blank headstock etc

    my first fan fret (electric) was 25-26" scales with a 5th fret perp and it works brilliantly for 6 strings, but most people looking at fanned frets are not thinking about improved tension on 6 strings
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  • dean2371dean2371 Frets: 139

    axisus said:
    Obvious comment, but make sure you measure them all from the start and not each from the previous one!


    I've done both as a double check
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    dean2371 said:

    axisus said:
    Obvious comment, but make sure you measure them all from the start and not each from the previous one!


    I've done both as a double check
    that is best
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