Wudtone and transfers...

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Anyone tried this? I'm curious - I'd like a transfer on the next build but I want a wudtone finish too...
A sig-nat-eur? What am I meant to use this for ffs?! Is this thing recording?
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 27631
    I've not, but I'll be interested in the answer.

    Try emailing Andy?
    Having trouble posting images here?  This might help.
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  • frankusfrankus Frets: 4719
    Was kinda lazily hoping he'd moved with us ;)

    Perhaps if I say wudtone 3 times in front of a mirror he'll appear ;)

    wudtone
    wudtone
    wudtone!


    A sig-nat-eur? What am I meant to use this for ffs?! Is this thing recording?
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 27631
    edited August 2013
    I don't think he's here yet.  

    I have emailed him to let him know we've moved.  But you know what it's like at this time of year ... He might be off on holiday rather than doing something more important on here.
    Having trouble posting images here?  This might help.
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  • chrispy108chrispy108 Frets: 2336
    :S more important..... does not compute.....

    I really must get round to wudtoning my guitar...
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  • hello , hope your all well, yes back to important things!
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  • frankus said:
    Anyone tried this? I'm curious - I'd like a transfer on the next build but I want a wudtone finish too...
    Do you need some help?

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  • davewwdaveww Frets: 165
    edited August 2013
    I built a Tele for my son and one for myself using woodtone and I'm very pleased with the results.

    I haven't taken a pic of mine which is more traditional but below is the first one I built for my son.



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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 27631
    hello , hope your all well, yes back to important things!

    Welcome Andy - good to have you back with us :)
    Having trouble posting images here?  This might help.
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  • frankusfrankus Frets: 4719
    frankus said:
    Anyone tried this? I'm curious - I'd like a transfer on the next build but I want a wudtone finish too...
    Do you need some help?

    Frequently :D

    I was musing as to whether or how to apply something like a Rothko and Frost transfer to a headstock prepped with Wudtone.

    I'm making a left handed Bass VI  - I got the Black Magic Woman Kit for the body - for my birthday, just gone ;) so thanks for that I'd like the Swamp Ash body as black as the Spinal Tap album...

    As for the headstock:

    I've been exploring a variety of options... painting the headstock face with nitro black and wudtone the rest - if I stained the face would the staining show at the sides? Most bodies are rounded or the same colour all over or bound... so just wondering.

    I've also toyed with getting the neck makers - USACG to put their logo on it - it's routed and then filled with clear lacquer - so stain-proof I'd expect. Then I don't need to worry about transfers..

    Then there's just popping the transfer on ... but at what stage ...

    lots of questions - I was hoping someone had been there before ;)

    A sig-nat-eur? What am I meant to use this for ffs?! Is this thing recording?
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  • andypwudtoneandypwudtone Frets: 287
    edited August 2013
    Hi Frankus,
    Firstly, the Black Magic Woman can be a bitch to get a solid colour. It will, however you will help it, if you leave the wood rough sanded before the deep colour coat, 180 is actually enough, max , sanded to 240 grit, and a last past with a fresh piece of paper for a clean cut so to make it nicely keyed and porous , . This is so the deep colour coat really takes. When applying go around 3-4times, applying a bit of pressure , ( using nearly all the deep colour coat in that first application, afterwards it should look like this.https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=539868532721907&set=a.327445107297585.71166.325946617447434&type=1&theater 
    The first coat is the most critical. After that apply 3-4 more base coats on top, just applied in the normal way keeping an eye on making sure it had complete coverage ( with any difficult area you may need to finish stroking across the grain rather than always with the grain). I have also added a little base coat to the top coat. It was like used motor oil in colour, these slightly darkened top coats still help in a 3d kind of way. There are three of these darkened top coats on this    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=553820291326731&set=a.327445107297585.71166.325946617447434&type=1&theater  example. It will be really nice after 6 mnths playing, curing time. Patina on worn areas will look lovely.  this was done for a customer, now built and loves it, is waiting for another lightweight body to replace in another guitar.

    re the decals , yes OK to apply neck tinit coat, apply decal , and then neck top coat on top. Th neck top coat has a little trad lacquer in it ( so takes a little longer to cure , but a couple of coats will give enough protection. I have a few customers have also sprayed a couple of nitro coats on top and that is compatible too. 

    re I've been exploring a variety of options... painting the headstock face with nitro black and wudtone the rest - if I stained the face would the staining show at the sides? Most bodies are rounded or the same colour all over or bound... so just wondering. 

    pls can you clarify and I can help. chrs Andy Preston 
     
     
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  • frankusfrankus Frets: 4719
    Hi Andy,

    Sorry for the delay.

    Okay - I see you sell an LP add on kit which has a kit for a black headstock face. I'd like to attempt the black headstock face on the Fender type headstock of the guitar I'm assembling. Does that sound feasable?

    I can't see any instructions or recommendations on the site or youtube for masking the headstock when treating the headstock face - any words of advice?

    Thanks :)
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  • andypwudtoneandypwudtone Frets: 287
    edited September 2013
    Hi Frankus,
    Yes no probs to use on a fender type headstock, I would suggest using either a small lacquer brush eg http://www.wudtone.com/shop/?wpsc-product=soft-hair-brush-12-inch or a micro fibre cloth to help you get a slightlythicker coating. I would do the black headstock face first, mask the edges to help avoid any bleed , spill over edge, and then tidy the edge with either fine steel wool or sand paper after each coat until you have the density of colour you want ( enough coats 3-5 should make it solid black). Apply the base colour of your choice on the rest of the neck ( it will be easy to wipe any off the black face without masking) , Then apply any logos , etc and then apply top coat over the whole thing including headstock face.
    Keep me posted and let me know if you have any more questions. kind regards    
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  • frankusfrankus Frets: 4719
    Woosh!!! and awesome :D

    I've contacted 3 suppliers today - and you're the first to get back in fact I think that's some kind of record in getting back in all the stuff I've done!

    Awesome I'm back feeling more excitement about this than apprehension - thank you :)


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  • your very welcome. Hope all goes well. chrs
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  • frankusfrankus Frets: 4719
    If the rest of the experience is like the deep colour coat I am totally sold on Wudtone!!

    I really get the difference between woods too - as I suspected the swamp ash body guzzled up the deep colour coat - it's now coal black. The maple headstock much less so, it's a dark grey with a really good grain showing and pretty crisp corners - masked and then made good with wire wool.

    I'm guessing the base coat can just be applied more times to the head-stock to get a matching colour between body and headstock... or do I try another deep colour coat first?
    A sig-nat-eur? What am I meant to use this for ffs?! Is this thing recording?
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  • hi there, 

    you got it, 

    base coat is best now, it is slightly thicker (more pigment less dye, ratio) so will actually coat better on wood which now won't be very porous.
    let me know if you need any more help, chrs
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