Thread name change - Strat setup help please!

Panama_Jack666

... I'm trying to sort out the action on a strat I've just bought and the trem block is a Callham jobby.

I've tried adjusting the saddles using a 1.5mm allen key but it appears it's too big. After looking on the Callham website, it appears that I need a 0.05inch allen key to fit the #4-40 screws. I'm not entirely sure if these are those screws - I just know my 1.5mm allen key fits the other strat bridge I own so I've made an assumption these screws are smaller.

Will Maplins sell such a thing? I assume B&Q won't? Electrical shops? Craft type shops?

Quick answers appreciated as I'm heading out in 45 mins!

Cheers!

guitargeek62

Take a saddle/screw with you and test a load? B&Q/Maplins/Hardware shops should have something. Maybe modelling/RC shops if not.

GuitarMonkey

Maplin have a set: Rolson 30 Part Long Arm Imperial Hex Key Set (Code: N62FT) £8.99

Panama_Jack666

Thanks for the help guys! Will head to Maplin's saddle screw in hand!

GuitarMonkey

You don't need the screw, it will be 1/20" AF

Panama_Jack666

GuitarMonkey said:

You don't need the screw, it will be 1/20" AF

Wisdom added x2! Cheers dude!

GuitarMonkey

Also, according to the Maplin website, the Harrogate branch have 10 in stock.

Panama_Jack666

GuitarMonkey said:

Also, according to the Maplin website, the Harrogate branch have 10 in stock.

I was just wondering if they would have them in stock. I was trying to get the page to load here at work but the internet is shite! Thanks for the help @guitarmonkey !

I'll probably be back here later when I've ballsed up the setup!

Panama_Jack666

Tools required bought had to settle for a ruler that measures in 32nds - I'm sure having the action dead on is going to be the least of my worries though!

Misterg

Panama_Jack666 said:

Tools required bought had to settle for a ruler that measures in 32nds

That'll make it a really quick job then!









(....coat ....going ..... now....)

Panama_Jack666

Misterg said:

Panama_Jack666 said:

Tools required bought had to settle for a ruler that measures in 32nds

That'll make it a really quick job then!









(....coat ....going ..... now....)

I rather enjoyed that - in return, you may have a LOL.

FelineGuitars

In the past I converted the measurements from 1/32 etc to thousandths of an inch and just used a set of feeler gauges which I found easier than trying to read off subdivisions on a steel rule when it got that small.

Still do that now as well

ICBM

GuitarMonkey said:

Also, according to the Maplin website, the Harrogate branch have 10 in stock.

Is that because Yorkshire still uses Imperial measurements?

Panama_Jack666

ICBM said:

GuitarMonkey said:

Also, according to the Maplin website, the Harrogate branch have 10 in stock.

Is that because Yorkshire still uses Imperial measurements?

Nowt wrong wi' Yorkshire!

FelineGuitars said:

In the past I converted the measurements from 1/32 etc to thousandths of an inch and just used a set of feeler gauges which I found easier than trying to read off subdivisions on a steel rule when it got that small.

Still do that now as well

Interesting. I may have to purchase a set of feeler gauges.

I'm relatively new to setting up guitars. I have a strat I'm working on as a trial. My intention last night was to do a rough set up - having a few issues though so going to carry on tonight...

I've got the guitar to a playable level... but, I'm having a few tuning stability issues and I need to find a way to raise the action further. Any tips or wisdom from anyone?

First of all the neck is quite straight so I think I need to do a bit more careful truss rod adjustment tonight to get the right relief. Some of the saddles are as high as they can be but the action is still pretty low. Will sorting out the bridge properly sort this out? It's a vintage 2 point style Callaham effort. I think it's set alright but I know it can be improved upon.

I think the strings might be slipping in the nut because certain bends/trem bar abuse knock it out of tune. I assume the wisdom here is graphite all over the slots on the nut?

Any other tips for tuning stability on a strat?

If it sounds like a dodgy set up, it is! I've done it with limited knowledge on setting up but feel quite confident after watching some You Tube videos last night that it's not a million miles out.

Help appreciated!

Misterg

Panama_Jack666 said:

I rather enjoyed that - in return, you may have a LOL.

Thank you very much.

I'm here all season.....

Andyjr1515

Panama_Jack666;99203" said:

ICBM said:



GuitarMonkey said:

Also, according to the Maplin website, the Harrogate branch have 10 in stock.





Is that because Yorkshire still uses Imperial measurements?

















Nowt wrong wi' Yorkshire!








FelineGuitars said:

In the past I converted the measurements from 1/32 etc to thousandths of an inch and just used a set of feeler gauges which I found easier than trying to read off subdivisions on a steel rule when it got that small.

Still do that now as well





Interesting. I may have to purchase a set of feeler gauges.



I'm relatively new to setting up guitars. I have a strat I'm working on as a trial. My intention last night was to do a rough set up - having a few issues though so going to carry on tonight...



I've got the guitar to a playable level... but, I'm having a few tuning stability issues and I need to find a way to raise the action further. Any tips or wisdom from anyone?



First of all the neck is quite straight so I think I need to do a bit more careful truss rod adjustment tonight to get the right relief. Some of the saddles are as high as they can be but the action is still pretty low. Will sorting out the bridge properly sort this out? It's a vintage 2 point style Callaham effort. I think it's set alright but I know it can be improved upon.



I think the strings might be slipping in the nut because certain bends/trem bar abuse knock it out of tune. I assume the wisdom here is graphite all over the slots on the nut?



Any other tips for tuning stability on a strat?



If it sounds like a dodgy set up, it is! I've done it with limited knowledge on setting up but feel quite confident after watching some You Tube videos last night that it's not a million miles out.



Help appreciated!

Sounds like you are pretty close to OK. For the neck relief, don't get too paranoid about exact measurements. Hold or capo the 6th or 1st string at the 1st fret and 16th fret. There should be JUST perceptible movement of the sting at the 8th fret. If it is hard against the fret, loosen the truss rod 1/4 turn at a time, if it is more than a paper thickness gap, tighten it. If it is a two point fixing, make sure the two pivot screws are at the recommended height (Google to see recommendations). This will set the 'starting height' of the strings before you adjust the individual saddles. Remember to slacken off the strings before you adjust these so you don't damage the knife edges. The sort your saddles to be c 1.25mm at 1st string progressively up to c 2mm at 6th. If you literally run out of thread, you may need longer grub screws but remember that Callahams are going to be Imperial, not metric threads. Ref the nut, if you can get hold of nut sauce, try that, if not, scrape a pencil lead into the nut slots (it is the string sticking in the slot that is the problem, not the string slipping). Make sure the strings are wound round the tuning pegs in a continuous reel and not all criss crossed. Make sure that your strings are stretched and remember that tuning a floating bridge is iterative ( repeat it and it will progressively get closer and closer to accurate tuning. Remember to always tune up to pitch to eliminate any slack in the tuning gears... Can't think of anymore tips but all of the above will make a difference to ANY bridge and Callahams are amongst the best. Hope this helps Andy

Panama_Jack666

Andyjr1515 said:

Sounds like you are pretty close to OK. For the neck relief, don't get too paranoid about exact measurements. Hold or capo the 6th or 1st string at the 1st fret and 16th fret. There should be JUST perceptible movement of the sting at the 8th fret. If it is hard against the fret, loosen the truss rod 1/4 turn at a time, if it is more than a paper thickness gap, tighten it. If it is a two point fixing, make sure the two pivot screws are at the recommended height (Google to see recommendations). This will set the 'starting height' of the strings before you adjust the individual saddles. Remember to slacken off the strings before you adjust these so you don't damage the knife edges. The sort your saddles to be c 1.25mm at 1st string progressively up to c 2mm at 6th. If you literally run out of thread, you may need longer grub screws but remember that Callahams are going to be Imperial, not metric threads. Ref the nut, if you can get hold of nut sauce, try that, if not, scrape a pencil lead into the nut slots (it is the string sticking in the slot that is the problem, not the string slipping). Make sure the strings are wound round the tuning pegs in a continuous reel and not all criss crossed. Make sure that your strings are stretched and remember that tuning a floating bridge is iterative ( repeat it and it will progressively get closer and closer to accurate tuning. Remember to always tune up to pitch to eliminate any slack in the tuning gears... Can't think of anymore tips but all of the above will make a difference to ANY bridge and Callahams are amongst the best. Hope this helps Andy

@andyjr1515 I really appreciate that info, thatnk you! It's certainly given me confidence in the steps I've taken so far. The strings are wound round the posts well (I've always prided myself on re-stringing jobs!)

My only downfall I think is the 2 point vintage style trem, I'll have a look at setting that correctly after work and may give the neck another 1/4 turn to give it the right relief! Will buy some nut sauce as well but see if graphite helps tonight as a temporary fix. I reckon it'll need a little bit of attention since the neck hasn't been used in a few years (and it was abused in it's previous life).