Is wudtone the answer?

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hasslehamhassleham Frets: 606
edited October 2016 in Making & Modding
I have a strat project that I currently use as a backup guitar for gigs.

I stained the body myself and after applying sanding sealer I was going to try a wipe on lacquer. However, I got sick of working on it so ended up sticking the hardware on and stringing it up and using it in its semi finished state.

I've just invested in a much nicer neck for it so I was thinking of working on the finish again to get it looking neater.

I've heard good things about Wudtone and was wondering if it will work over the existing finish or whether I would need to sand it back first? Do wudtone do a wipe on gloss finish that will be easier to use than standard wipe on lacquer?

Any advice is appreciated! I realise I could google this but I was hoping to hear from people who have actually used it.




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Comments

  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12665
    Tru Oil.

    Just use that over the top of what's there to create a proper sheen.
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • DrBobDrBob Frets: 3006
    impmann said:
    Tru Oil.

    Just use that over the top of what's there to create a proper sheen.
    I came here to say pretty much exactly the same thing !
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  • hasslehamhassleham Frets: 606
    Thanks guys, looks promising!
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  • @hassleham there have been many finishing related threads in the 'making and modding' section, but the following one contains a lot of information, and references people's experiences with Wudtone and other finishes:

    http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/76402/wudtone-black-magic-woman-finish-any-experience#latest

    To be clear, I haven't used Wudtone, but anecdotal evidence suggests that it doesn't work well where there are other finishes, so they must be scrupulously removed and the bare wood prepared correctly - so perhaps not an appropriate choice in your situation, given the instruments history.

    As others have suggested Tru oil may be the way to go, but for completness some other oil finishes are described in the linked thread. Osmopolyx and Eze Oil are both floor finishing products (i.e. hard-wearing and durable), but I don't know how well they (or any oil finish) will go on over the sanding sealer you have already applied - you may have to experiment.

    Also, I assume you are trying to avoid using spray cans? If not then Steve Robinson in Manchester and Northwest Guitars in St Helens sell lacquer in spray cans.
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  • hasslehamhassleham Frets: 606
    Thanks @CasperCaster! Very useful.
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  • andypwudtoneandypwudtone Frets: 287
    edited October 2016
    Hi there , just to clarify your Wudtone options. If you are happy with the existing colouration which looks good in the pic, some Wudtone Satin, or Xgloss top coat will go on top no problem, self level, look , feel great. We don't have a top coat only product on the website, but if that is all you want get in touch via mail@wudtone.com.  

    Tru-oil is an alternative, quick to use but it is polymerised linseed, also called stand oil based and so a relatively soft / plasticky option that will impede the guitars resonance.

    With regard to @CasperCaster 's comment "To be clear, I haven't used Wudtone, but anecdotal evidence suggests that it doesn't work well where there are other finishes, so they must be scrupulously removed and the bare wood prepared correctly - so perhaps not an appropriate choice in your situation, given the instruments history."   

    This may be the case if you were re-doing the colouration  with any of Wudtone's dye only translucent based colours. That is when you need to have access to wood that is bare and porous for the initial deep colouration dye process not to wipe straight off or be inhibited in some way. Indeed it is the same using any product with fine particle dye/stain, process on wood.  So if your not re-colouring Wudtone top coat is a well regarded, easy to use, very low cost, tone friendly option and you can mail me to get some.   kind regards
     
     
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  • hasslehamhassleham Frets: 606
    @andypwudtone ;

    Hey Andy, 
    Thanks for your reply! I will send an email over shortly.


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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2400
    lol awarded for impeding guitars resonance, always makes me laugh, especially when another product is being hawked. 
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  • sweepysweepy Frets: 4183
    I always use gunstock oil, if it's good enough for Musicman etc etc
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  • hasslehamhassleham Frets: 606
    I have ordered some wudtone top coat to try.. If it doesn't work out then I will give Crimson guitar oil a go, or Tru oil.

    Side note: The new neck just arrived and it's prettyyyyyyyy


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  • DrBobDrBob Frets: 3006
    hassleham said:
    I have ordered some wudtone top coat to try.. If it doesn't work out then I will give Crimson guitar oil a go, or Tru oil.

    Side note: The new neck just arrived and it's prettyyyyyyyy


    That was you that snared that whilst I was busy with the washing up ? 
    Grrrrrrrr
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  • hasslehamhassleham Frets: 606
    Yup! Sorry  :#
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  • hasslehamhassleham Frets: 606
    edited October 2016
    Progress:






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  • Looking good. I ordered some wudtone for my project which I need to get round to at some point!
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  • I disagree that Tru oil impedes resonance, certainly not after a few light coats.  Possibly if you built a thick finish up but that would probably take years to achieve.  I have a 90ml bottle which has done a body and a few necks and still feels full, so you are literally adding nothing by way of finish to the guitar.  Wudtone may well be a better option though, I do plan to try it next time.

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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12665


    I disagree that Tru oil impedes resonance, certainly not after a few light coats.  Possibly if you built a thick finish up but that would probably take years to achieve. 

    This.

    Wudtone is OK but it "relics" too quickly/easily for me - with my particular body chemistry, it came off along the edges where my arm touched the guitar.

    On the other hand, Tru Oil seem unaffected - and it looks great over certain woods.
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • I hope it doesn't wear down too quickly! I can't be bothered going through the process again haha. I've been applying coats every couple of days and the guitar is almost ready for polishing now. I will probably do one more final coat before putting it back together and seeing how well the new neck works.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    edited November 2016


    I disagree that Tru oil impedes resonance, certainly not after a few light coats.  Possibly if you built a thick finish up but that would probably take years to achieve.  I have a 90ml bottle which has done a body and a few necks and still feels full, so you are literally adding nothing by way of finish to the guitar.  Wudtone may well be a better option though, I do plan to try it next time.


    With my sand back method very little tru-oil is used and most of it is buffed off in the process.  its a satin sheen finish  - super thin.  Lots of work but cheap to do as a small bottle will do the full process on  2 or 3 full guitars.

    Some people do use Tru-oil as a lacquer they build up loads of coats let it cure for a long time and buff to a high shine.  I do agree with Andy's point that this is not the best for tone...Personally I use lacquer when this is what I need.    

    I liked the feel of the wudtone clear/satin finishes.  never got to test the durability. 

    Its not a better or worse option. Its just an option that may be better or worse for different scenarios. The degree to how much better or worse it is will depend on the way it is applied....  you can apply the same statements to every single finish option out there.


    Personally I think thickness is more important than type of finish.   Use whatever you can get your hands on and practice getting it applied as thinly as possibly.     We should really discuss technique as much as we discuss type of finish.

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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6389
    What about thin wipe on of Tru-Oil, let it harden, then sand back (320 for fist 6 coats, then 600/1200) - repeat x12 ?

    I got a really deep shine from effectively a thin finish - only needed a light t-cut to shine up. I'm dead chuffed. 
    Imagine something sharp and witty here ......

    Feedback
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  • meltedbuzzboxmeltedbuzzbox Frets: 10339
    edited November 2016

    Tru-oil is an alternative, quick to use but it is polymerised linseed, also called stand oil based and so a relatively soft / plasticky option that will impede the guitars resonance.
    [Admin edit: expletive deleted]
    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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