I have a strat project that I currently use as a backup guitar for gigs.
I stained the body myself and after applying sanding sealer I was going to try a wipe on lacquer. However, I got sick of working on it so ended up sticking the hardware on and stringing it up and using it in its semi finished state.
I've just invested in a much nicer neck for it so I was thinking of working on the finish again to get it looking neater.
I've heard good things about Wudtone and was wondering if it will work over the existing finish or whether I would need to sand it back first? Do wudtone do a wipe on gloss finish that will be easier to use than standard wipe on lacquer?
Any advice is appreciated! I realise I could google this but I was hoping to hear from people who have actually used it.
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Just use that over the top of what's there to create a proper sheen.
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/76402/wudtone-black-magic-woman-finish-any-experience#latest
To be clear, I haven't used Wudtone, but anecdotal evidence suggests that it doesn't work well where there are other finishes, so they must be scrupulously removed and the bare wood prepared correctly - so perhaps not an appropriate choice in your situation, given the instruments history.
As others have suggested Tru oil may be the way to go, but for completness some other oil finishes are described in the linked thread. Osmopolyx and Eze Oil are both floor finishing products (i.e. hard-wearing and durable), but I don't know how well they (or any oil finish) will go on over the sanding sealer you have already applied - you may have to experiment.
Also, I assume you are trying to avoid using spray cans? If not then Steve Robinson in Manchester and Northwest Guitars in St Helens sell lacquer in spray cans.
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/89942/caspercaster#latest
Tru-oil is an alternative, quick to use but it is polymerised linseed, also called stand oil based and so a relatively soft / plasticky option that will impede the guitars resonance.
With regard to @CasperCaster 's comment "To be clear, I haven't used Wudtone, but anecdotal evidence suggests that it doesn't work well where there are other finishes, so they must be scrupulously removed and the bare wood prepared correctly - so perhaps not an appropriate choice in your situation, given the instruments history."
This may be the case if you were re-doing the colouration with any of Wudtone's dye only translucent based colours. That is when you need to have access to wood that is bare and porous for the initial deep colouration dye process not to wipe straight off or be inhibited in some way. Indeed it is the same using any product with fine particle dye/stain, process on wood. So if your not re-colouring Wudtone top coat is a well regarded, easy to use, very low cost, tone friendly option and you can mail me to get some. kind regards
Hey Andy,
Thanks for your reply! I will send an email over shortly.
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/61134/sarge/p1
Side note: The new neck just arrived and it's prettyyyyyyyy
Grrrrrrrr
I disagree that Tru oil impedes resonance, certainly not after a few light coats. Possibly if you built a thick finish up but that would probably take years to achieve. I have a 90ml bottle which has done a body and a few necks and still feels full, so you are literally adding nothing by way of finish to the guitar. Wudtone may well be a better option though, I do plan to try it next time.
Wudtone is OK but it "relics" too quickly/easily for me - with my particular body chemistry, it came off along the edges where my arm touched the guitar.
On the other hand, Tru Oil seem unaffected - and it looks great over certain woods.
With my sand back method very little tru-oil is used and most of it is buffed off in the process. its a satin sheen finish - super thin. Lots of work but cheap to do as a small bottle will do the full process on 2 or 3 full guitars.
Some people do use Tru-oil as a lacquer they build up loads of coats let it cure for a long time and buff to a high shine. I do agree with Andy's point that this is not the best for tone...Personally I use lacquer when this is what I need.
I liked the feel of the wudtone clear/satin finishes. never got to test the durability.
Its not a better or worse option. Its just an option that may be better or worse for different scenarios. The degree to how much better or worse it is will depend on the way it is applied.... you can apply the same statements to every single finish option out there.
Personally I think thickness is more important than type of finish. Use whatever you can get your hands on and practice getting it applied as thinly as possibly. We should really discuss technique as much as we discuss type of finish.
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I got a really deep shine from effectively a thin finish - only needed a light t-cut to shine up. I'm dead chuffed.
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