Ok, obtained one of these hollow body bases silly cheap for our open mic/band jam. The neck is lovely with very low action and it sounds superb. Apart from being a silly good deal guy who comes and plays bass is older and in a mobility scooter and wanted something nice and light for him as often also gets pain in hips and shoulder. Think I made right choice as he loves it...
however, here comes the age old feedback question, its very old and wood has matured nicely giving a very nice acoustic tone as well as lovely amplified tone. But as you guess it feedbacks like a bitch (not so good as the lovely auld goat also needs to hear himself which means having his amp up enough for his old ears to hear).
so first things first I need to tighten the jack so wiring will be coming out. While I am there I intend to wax pot the pickups (which I assume is a no brainer for such an old set and feedback reduction) not a heavy wax pot, just enough to hold windings better (30sec to 60 secs I guess). So hopefully it will reduce the chance of loose winding feedback but not totally kill the character of the pickups.
Next I don't want to stuff whole bass full but thinking I can at least fill it from neck join area to almost bridge through pickup holes. So what's best? I can use foam but guess that only stops sound travelling so well under pickups but wouldn't really tamp the front from vibrating much. I could carefully build up some expanding foam along the centre line pickup width to bridge area which would reduce resonant space and once dry should offer slightly more damping/stiffness to centre area where pickups and bridge are. Yes it will change unamped tone and amped tone a bit but should still be between hollow and tone block style. My last fought is material/cloth of some sort packed into pickup holes along same centre line area (so should damp acoustic sound getting to back of pickups and reduce vibration in top wood in those areas).
So which would we recommend would be best option for filling/damping centre area from neck to near bridge. All are reverseable as a bent wire coat hanger should easily remove the expanding foam. Tbh I am vearing to expanding leaving sides hollow and rear of bridge hollow so like i say I damp slightly and reduce hollow area but not as severe as a total fill or a solid wood tone block but effectively same idea. If after that it needs a wee tweak then can make some plugs for f holes too.
Would love some comments and advice on my plan from some of you experienced guys and any suggestions I haven't thought of. Thanks loads...
Comments
Luckily it hadn't got right up into the pickup cavities, so by cutting the pickup wires off close to them and adding new ones I was able to fix it "just" with a full new wiring loom. The real difficulty was clearing out enough space inside to get the old parts out and the new ones in - working through the f-hole with violin-maker's chisels. It was a lot of time-consuming work though - in the end it was almost as expensive as buying another second hand Sheraton…
So if you're going to try this, you really need to be very careful that you protect the wiring area in some way to stop the foam getting that far - not sure if building up a 'wall' of it will work, but I do have an idea - if you get a polythene bag, put a balloon inside it and arrange it so that with the bag inside the guitar and the end of the balloon outside, blowing the balloon up expands it to fill the control area tightly, that should work! The foam shouldn't stick to polythene so you'll be able to pull the bag out afterwards.
I think…
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
if it was in better condition I would defo be going along a route that is temp like cloth/foam/hole blockers etc
I think it shouldn't even produce enough force to collapse a well-blown-up balloon, but it may be worth an experiment if you have a reasonable amount of it - try filling a small cardboard box with it, with half the box taken up with a balloon. If it doesn't crush the balloon or split the box you'll be fine.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
only going to start filling area with foam once I have a dry top to bottom barrier at perimeter of area I want foam in, then build it up one line at a time so its not going to create pressure onto the outer area. As defo want to keep cavities under f holes and round bottom rear of bridge so retain as much character as I can while improving resistance to feedback.
such a small amount of foam each time it just doesn't have the volume of expansion to go that far from where I put it. Will leave tubes long till done then trim to size.
I was assuming you wouldn't be using it in a sealed space, if the bass has various holes to the outside…
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
like I say will do best to get some photos and do a big step by step description with some lines on a photo showing where I put stuff inside.
will be done with loom out and as I say some tubes for wiring to be slid through the foam once its dry.
Won't kill the feel of instrument as it would still be very resonant. It'll move it from acoustic sounding to 335 style (but as foam not as dense as a block of wood it should sit somewhere between the two styles). For a band jam if it sounds decent but is low fuss for feedback etc then its perfect. Will see how material and wax works for a starter for 10.
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