Problem solved...("Oh, no, it isn't!", "Oh, yes, it is!")

imalrightjack

Screw removal issue meets brute force.  Got a sweat on now...

New speaker, soldering iron, etc. here.  Removed the old speaker without too much fuss and proceeded to apply solder to the exposed cable/L clips.  Connected to an amp I'm less worried about killing - and nothing.

Two things: is there a way to test it without risking an amp?  Any suggestions on what I've possibly got wrong?  I'd far rather they were slide on clips...

Voxman

Hiya @imalrightjack - funny you should post that today, as I've just changed the speaker in my DSL401 and there were some 15 screws I had to undo to get access to the speaker - 4 of them in particular going through an mdf separation board at the back were really stiff!  The speaker screws themselves were easy to unscrew though.  

Life would be a lot easier with a power screwdriver but I don't have one - and I'm assuming you don't either -  if you have, use it, if not, key thing is to check you have the right size screwdriver.  A trick I use is to put on a rubber marigold glove on my screwing hand (no making up your own jokes, please - I know what you smutty lot are like! ) because this really helps you grip, and helps keep your hand from getting sore (don't go there...just DON'T   !).  The other thing you could do is spray a tiny bit of WD40 around the screw - a little will seep down and can ease things a bit.  

Re solder, I'd suggest getting a paper clip, unravelling it and getting one end really hot eg from a candle flame or a gas flame on your cooker (if you have gas) - smaller surface area to heat and more control when contacting the solder.

Hope this helps.

imalrightjack

Thanks, @voxman - as you can see, I put my back into it and managed.  Not looking forward to getting the screws in on the new speaker though!  I'll pop to the local shop for Marigolds tomorrow!

Now to get the solder off...although I have a horrible feeling it will require solder to put back on

ICBM

Stop right now if your only method of soldering is a heated screwdriver - you will not make a good job of it and you could easily cause damage. If you don't own a soldering iron (and powerful enough, 25W or more) you're probably best to take it to someone who is used to doing this, it will probably save trouble and possibly money in the long run.

Assuming you've solved that problem yourself and still want to doit yourself, lie the cabinet down so the screws are pointing straight up, get the *correct* screwdriver which fits the screw properly, and push down hard while turning. Do not use the wrong driver or a power screwdriver unless you really have to, it's much easier to chew the heads up and then you're in real trouble. Make absolutely sure the screwdriver can't slip or you'll probably need another new speaker.

imalrightjack

@ICBM - I've just ordered a soldering iron from Amazon, to arrive tomorrow.  Pretty sure I can do it, just need to be sober this time...

I've also ordered a screwdriver set, as I needed one anyway.

Thanks

ICBM

OK .

Are you familiar with soldering? If not, some advice…

First, don't use lead-free solder - it's shit. You will not be able to make a decent joint with it, and even if you do it's hard to tell! Use only leaded solder, or added-silver lead-free. The added-silver is easy to buy - Maplins stock it if you only need a small quantity, or you can get in online. It is quite a bit more expensive, but worth every penny.

Second, always protect the speaker cone with a cloth or some kitchen roll under the terminals, arranged so that if a blob of solder does drip it will roll out of the speaker frame and not down into the gap around the inside of the rim, where it's difficult to get out. Balls of old solder in the edge of the speaker will rattle annoyingly and in the worst case can wear through the cone.

imalrightjack

As always, +1 wisdom! Ordered tin lead with rosin core. 

imalrightjack

So...not quite as easy as I had hoped.

New speaker, soldering iron, etc. here.  Removed the old speaker without too much fuss and proceeded to apply solder to the exposed cable/L clips.  Connected to an amp I'm less worried about killing - and nothing.

Two things: is there a way to test it without risking an amp?  Any suggestions on what I've possibly got wrong?  I'd far rather they were slide on clips...

ThePrettyDamned

Bad solder join? 

The surface you're applying to needs to be hot, so the solder melts onto it properly. 

imalrightjack

ThePrettyDamned said:

Bad solder join? 

The surface you're applying to needs to be hot, so the solder melts onto it properly. 

I can only presume so. I'm concerned that, having removed it all, that I've a) started to run short on cable and b) have got too much gunk remaining on the tips of what cable I have and the connector on the speaker. One of those where I dare not take any more risks. 

imalrightjack

Finally all sorted.  Cleared a different work area, so I could get in closer, take my time a bit more (I thought I'd done that but found otherwise).  Cleaned up the joint, trimmed the cable, tinned them both, added a little more and all works fine.

Getting the screws back in, mind...some definite angle changes but seems to be okay.  Neo Creamback - sounds great!

Bridgehouse

This thread is turning into a right pantomime

imalrightjack

Bridgehouse said:

This thread is turning into a right pantomime

Trust me, it isn't the first!  Some of you lot deserve medals.

Voxman

Bridgehouse said:

This thread is turning into a right pantomime

What makes you say that?