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"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Gorilla glue is stronger than the wood, so I would think it'd stand a good chance of holding on its own.
You know what I'd do? Get a router anyway, some ear defenders and hang some plastic dust sheets around your work area, a mat or board on the floor and hit it on a Saturday morning, who is to know it's not a sparky chasing in some new conduit cabling, Emmerdale Farm at 3000 decibels or any other socially acceptable form of abhorrent weekend noise? As said, setting up everything will take the lions share of the time anyway. In fact you don't even need a table saw, you could cut your maple splints accurately with the router and also make the jig with the router, after cutting them with a Jack (Hand) saw on them. At least the band aids and phone for the emergency services will be right next to you if anything goes awry. Don't let them grind you down. You have a right to own and operate a router, you are a man.
But if you are determined to be oldskool, like IBCM says, a very sharp, quality metal chisel by hand will do the job and a piece of MDF as a flat table to compare your edge to, so sharp mind that you shouldn't need to use a hammer at all and go with the direction that doesn't raise the grain and go in light passes, not too deep, especially at first.
They are trying to emasculate you and turn us all into metrosexuals by design who don't answer back, don't be emasculated...is all I am saying. It starts with on street parking restrictions, who knows where it will end. You only need a 2 x 4' work space anyhow. But in reality honing your 17th century woodworking skills won't be a bad thing either. Plenty of online videos with handy tips to help too. Or is you have the cash maybe hire some time or lessons at a work workshop. Surely someone has a garage in a garage block that isn't being used around you?
OK. Fair enough. Get some sharp chisels, a narrow one and possibly a wide one for clean up and straight edging of the splints and try and head toward something like this, most important is the contact with the length of the sides of the splints, not the ends.
When you looked at the break, which end has the most feathering or tapered edge on it? The neck or the headstock? The neck? You want to work the chisel with the direction of the taper form neck to headstock, not against it, as you'll lift the grain and get chip out. If the wood starts to spilt and chip around the chisel, or the chisel is digging in, work it in the opposite direction. Shouldn't take long as long as your chisel is really sharp, steady it with your left hand and don't ever work with your hand in front of it Be just like mortising a rebate in a door frame, although the wood is gonna be harder.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
With a hand drill they'd be a lot of wobble getting the drill started at an angle, either that or you slice a chunk out at an angle with the chisel first to get it started, either way, there'd not much meat to allow good contact with the dowels, no?. For twenty quid on a couple of sets of chisels and practicing your chiselling on a piece of mahogany first, pressing or very gently or tapping the shavings out and working back on yourself to tidy up the ends of the mortises from the shavings would be easy enough.
Or easiest would be to just drill a hole, the exact same width as the practice chisel cut at either end of the mortise. Do this after starting the mortise off first with a few passes first to avoid chip out, say about 2mm deep. This way it'd be a lot easier to chase the mortises out cleanly and then bevel the ends of the splints to fit with sandpaper/file, so long as the angle is about the same and it's a flush fit both sides. If you do go shonky with the drill holes and the sides of the mortise are not parallel, no worries, just shave your splint down in section to fit, trial and error until you get it right. So long as it's a flush, snug fit, on each side, on the top and bottom sides of the join it's fine, doesn't have to be perfect. Beech, Oak or Maple is all pretty strong for the splints.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
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