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Hmm - I mostly agree, but I'd say 3mm pilot. Use a centrepunch first (I like the automagic ones), then 3mm pilot, then straight to full size. Drill speed should be set according to the drill size so that you're producing chips or coils rather than dust - the chips carry away heat. Definitely have the workpiece in a vice, and a pillar drill is well worth the money.
Also some Dormer Supercut or similar will stop the aluminium from sticking to the drill bits and give cleaner, faster drilling - I bought a bottle of this about ten years ago and have used maybe 10% of it.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cutting-fluids/1963441/
For finishing I scuff the enclosure with a 220 grit foam sanding block, then degrease with spray isopropanol. One coat of primer, a couple of colour, decal, a couple of lacquer. Up to the decal stage I bake in a toaster oven on very low.
Or - just a quick search, no endorsement or otherwise of the seller:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIL-DIP-IC-Socket-6-8-14-16-18-20-Pin-Sockets-1st-CLASS-POST-/290767443526?var=&hash=item43b3171646:m:mZvJyqxJwDZkU_vJzZhOOoQ
You're after DIL sockets.
http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=225_230&products_id=1648
...which are suitable for socketing anything else. You buy a strip of them and cut off the number you need for each job.
FWIW, I'd try to keep socketing to a minimum- having components fall out of the sockets- which might happen with a good hard bang- will cause the pedal to fail. It introduces extra potential unreliability, so only do it if you're really concerned about the component you're socketing, or if it's something you might want to swap out, like clipping diodes in an overdrive or something.
Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.
https://www.rapidonline.com/weller-t0051388499-wsw-sac-l0-96-5-3-0-5-solder-wire-0-5mm-100g-85-6542
I'd go for something around 0.5mm (I use 0.4mm), lead-free in case you want to sell what you make.
Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.
With the skinny stuff the lead-free is no harder to work with.
If it was Amazon I might find it if I trawl back far enough through my purchase history...
Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282204138989
In the past when working on guitar wiring, I've always used the lead-free silver solder that Maplins sell, and found it fine to work with. Their cheaper lead-free stuff, not described as "silver solder" is a bit rubbish though in my opinion.
I don't know why you lot listen to me at all.