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I'm not fooling myself that there's some mystical holy grail out there, just thinking aloud over the course of a few months
I'm still sticking with Elixirs on electric - I have more of those so they don't get a string change anywhere near as often
Definitely worth a go whilst you're trying things out.
Just DON'T cut them until they're up to tension!
I was a D'Addario EJ16 man for many years until I got a slot head acoustic. What a pain that was changing strings so I thought I would try Elixir PB Nanowebs. Really like them and they last me a year so less changing strings!!
Phil
My guess is that it's the pre-tensioning which makes them sound so good out of the packet, and is why they mustn't be cut before they're tightened onto the posts. The really do feel and sound like played-in strings from the start, and seem to stay that way for a long time without losing the brightness. I've had them on my guitar since last summer and they're still fine.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I think some Newtones use round core wire (instead of hexagonal)... and that's why you shouldn't cut them until they're installed on the guitar (and tuned to pitch).
I used their low-tension strings on my J45. Feel nice (very easy to play)... and tone seems to last a good long while.
the quick answer is very marginally for the better + think I've written bout this here or somewhere recently.
Intonation compensation is dictated (mainly) by the core wire -
Ah - here it is - writen as a response to some American query re, 'Contact Core' --- GHS strings ???.
yup, just as it says - the core wire is in contact with the saddle as the winding starts about just over an inch from the ballend. note that it's actually the core wire gauge (diameter) that is what determines the amount of compensation required - think electric guitar - the unwound 'G' which IS unwound, so 'core wire' is a larger diameter than the 'e' or 'B' and gets more compensation - ie the saddle is further back. Whereas on 'acoustics' with wound 'G' the inner (core) wire is a smaller diameter (roughly 9 gauge) so it gets 'less' compensation - ie the saddle is further forward.
What does all this mean ?. The 'body' of the string is in full contact rather than the coiled external wrap and just where they come in contact may or may not be making good full transference of ALL the strings vibration.
On an other note - Lowden thought that 'piano wound' (contact core) were a good enough 'improvement' to fit Rotosound 'Tru Bronze' to their guitars for years - that was until the went as other makers did - with 'coated' strings for a longer life given how guitars hanging in stores get used.
Obviously u'r 'action' goes down by the amount of the 'wrap' wire's gauge / diameter - so what I say !.
I hated the things...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The 'cutting to length- - unraveling thingy that so confused the Americans, without reading the installation instructions I've NEVER had an issue because I put 'em on - wind 'em up (under pitch) and don't cut them till they've 'settled in'. I think internet vids of string installation - cutting to length being the cooooool way to string up has been the culprit.
It's the round core in them that warrants the warning. Standard hexagonal cores grip the windings around them but if you cut Newtones before they're tensioned, being a round core, the winding can slide off the core leading to problems. It is the round core however which gives the better result sonically.
EDIT - just in case there is confusion, the core at the end of the Newtone string is not round, to keep the windings in place. So you have to tune up the string first before snipping this end off.
I never cut strings before they're locked onto the posts and tightened either - I don't know why you would, it makes it harder. The only exception is slotted Fender-style posts, and with those I think you're meant to just kink the string to a right angle before you cut it... although getting the length right so it goes fully down the post hole may then take a bit of trial and error.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
http://www.theboxwoodchessmen.com/
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I have a shopping list of EJ16s, Newtones now Curt Mangand so will let you know!
Tried the rotosound superbronze with the piano wind at end. Was surprised at how tense they felt. Grippy and stubborn to bend. Went back to Daddarios. Just ordered a set of DR sunbeams. Think they might be round core In design. Easy to bend and bright. Looking forward to trying em out.
I can't get Mangans or Newtones in Abu Dhabi, so I've picked up some D'addario EJ16s for my next set. I hadn't realised they were phosphor bronze, which I haven't used in about a decade, so that's interesting in its own right. I'm not a huge fan. They're nice for strumming but don't have enough high-mid sparkle under any conditions, and especially finger picking. But they sound better than I remember phosphor bronze strings to have sounded in the past, so I'm keen to try some other D'addarios and compared to the Martins that are currently the top favourite.
I'll put a shopping list together for my next UK trip, and in the meantime look at some 80/20 D'ads. Has anyone tried EJ11s or EJ14s?