Guitar set ups... order of tasks?

Strat_a_tat_tat

What's the ideal order of tasks when setting up a guitar?

I'm guessing...

1. Check the frets and make sure they're level... and deal with any high/low frets.

2. Check depth of nut slots... and file as necessary.

3. Check and adjust the neck relief.

4. Check saddle heights... and adjust as necessary.

Is that correct... or total tosh?

Thanks.

ICBM

Pretty much.

I would add...

5. Intonation.
6. Pickup adjustments.

... and:

0. Check everything is working and at least in the right ballpark *before* you start! It's annoying to have to take the strings off again to get at the electrics, or a neck joint that needs shimming, or something like that. (Guilty, many times... )

Strat_a_tat_tat

@ICBM... yes... I should've added all those to my list! Thanks.

An additional question...

If I don't want to get involved in filing/levelling frets... and just want to assume they're OK-ish (after a cursory check)... I guess it would be wise to allow a little bit of wiggle room when adjusting nut and saddle heights... i.e. if we're talking about an acoustic, take care not to remove the theoretical maximum amount of material in the nut slots or saddle height, just in case slight unevenness in the frets could introduce buzz.

Does that sound sensible?

WezV

Strat_a_tat_tat said:

@ICBM... yes... I should've added all those to my list! Thanks.

An additional question...

If I don't want to get involved in filing/levelling frets... and just want to assume they're OK-ish (after a cursory check)... I guess it would be wise to allow a little bit of wiggle room when adjusting nut and saddle heights... i.e. if we're talking about an acoustic, take care not to remove the theoretical maximum amount of material in the nut slots or saddle height, just in case slight unevenness in the frets could introduce buzz.

Does that sound sensible?

its what the factories seem to do  

Strat_a_tat_tat

WezV said:

Strat_a_tat_tat said:

@ICBM... yes... I should've added all those to my list! Thanks.

An additional question...

If I don't want to get involved in filing/levelling frets... and just want to assume they're OK-ish (after a cursory check)... I guess it would be wise to allow a little bit of wiggle room when adjusting nut and saddle heights... i.e. if we're talking about an acoustic, take care not to remove the theoretical maximum amount of material in the nut slots or saddle height, just in case slight unevenness in the frets could introduce buzz.

Does that sound sensible?

its what the factories seem to do  

So I guess you're saying it's a dumb idea?!?!?  :-)

WezV

not really, it may not be the perfect set-up, but it will allow the guitar to cope with a wider variety of situations.  Its wise to play it safe until you are comfortable, but even if you go too far on the nut, all is not lost

my own acoustic plays perfectly for 6 months of the year, buzzes and rattles for the other 6.  I should have left a bit more wiggle room in the saddle height, or done the set-up 6 months later.   I will sort it net year, maybe  

Strat_a_tat_tat

@WezV ; Many thanks for the info.

... and with regard to your acoustic buzzing for 6 months of the year... that sounds like the perfect excuse to buy another guitar... so you've got a summer acoustic and a winter acoustic. ;-)

WezV

Strat_a_tat_tat said:

@WezV ; Many thanks for the info.

... and with regard to your acoustic buzzing for 6 months of the year... that sounds like the perfect excuse to buy another guitar... so you've got a summer acoustic and a winter acoustic. ;-)

I think a summer saddle and winter saddle would do, not normally needed here but it has a very light finish so the top moves more with the seasons

Strat_a_tat_tat

WezV said:

Strat_a_tat_tat said:

@WezV ; Many thanks for the info.

... and with regard to your acoustic buzzing for 6 months of the year... that sounds like the perfect excuse to buy another guitar... so you've got a summer acoustic and a winter acoustic. ;-)

I think a summer saddle and winter saddle would do, not normally needed here but it has a very light finish so the top moves more with the seasons

Yes... I've been meaning to sort out a summer saddle and winter saddle... but I'm always happy to find an excuse to buy another guitar (even if my wife isn't)

ICBM

Strat_a_tat_tat said:

Yes... I've been meaning to sort out a summer saddle and winter saddle... but I'm always happy to find an excuse to buy another guitar (even if my wife isn't)

Do they not have summer clothes and winter clothes? A summer guitar and a winter guitar seems perfectly fair to me...

Strat_a_tat_tat

@ICBM... why won't the site let me award you more than one Wisdom for that killer comment?

dindude

Can I add a question to this as it seems the appropriate thread.

What is and isn't ok to do under full string tension?

In my mind, I work to this but not sure if it's general wisdom though?

OK = truss rod, saddle string length (I.e intonation), saddle string height.

Not OK = post height on TOM or fender 2-post trem etc.

And one more: should you grease mechanical components (I.e trems) from time to time?

usedtobe

Strat_a_tat_tat said:

@ICBM... why won't the site let me award you more than one Wisdom for that killer comment?

Got yer covered, mate!

  

ICBM

I always slacken the string(s) before lengthening the intonation or raising the bridge (or saddle) on any guitar, because otherwise you're fighting the string tension and it just makes things harder - but I generally don't if going the other way. Usually that's the only problem, there is no particular harm in adjusting them under tension.

The big ones to never do under string tension are -

Post heights or intonation on a wraparound bridge/tailpiece - you *will* chew up the posts with the tips of the intonation screws, and probably the slots in the top too - which also applies if it's just a tailpiece. (NB, these are intentionally designed as *coin* slots - don't use a screwdriver, use whichever coin is the best fit.)

Floyd Rose, other 2-post knife edge, and PRS trem pivot screws - you will damage the knife edges.

It's OK to do both these with some minimal tension on just to keep everything in the right place, you don't have to take the strings right off.

Truss rods are also OK under tension, but it's often better to pull the neck back a little by hand at the same time to reduce the force needed on the nut.

Rabs

I always check the necks straightness before the frets...  If its really bowed you want to sort that out first.

Strat_a_tat_tat

usedtobe said:

Strat_a_tat_tat said:

@ICBM... why won't the site let me award you more than one Wisdom for that killer comment?

Got yer covered, mate!

  

Your generosity has been duly awarded... with a Wisdom - to replace the one you kindly passed on to ICBM!

Gassage

1. Locate reading glasses...

Strat_a_tat_tat

Gassage said:

1. Locate reading glasses...

Very apt in my case. I've recently taken to wearing two pairs when trying to do something particularly tricky.

Bridgehouse

Gassage said:

1. Locate reading glasses...

2. Realise they are on the top of your head..