Speaker mounting screws - any specific type/size?

bean7

I acquired an old (90s) Road ready 1x12 Thiele cab (mentioned a thread yesterday), in which someone had replaced the speaker with a Celestion V30 using 4 random looking screws (slightly chunkier looking, looks like they'd enlarged the original screw holes a bit) - these are screws directly into the baffle, no nuts/bolts/t-nuts. 

I'd like to get an EVM-12L for this cab to get it back as close to original spec as possible - and would like to just stick with the original mounting method using screws since the cab itself doesn't look too easy to get the back off so could be problematic trying to use t-nuts (the cab construction is similar to what you see in this thread - https://www.talkbass.com/threads/mesa-boogie-diesel-2x10-project.732075/)

Just wondering what screws would be best to use, if anything would do that looks close enough to the original size (and what is the original size)? 

Appreciate any advice with this.

ecc83

http://www.screwfix.com/p/insert-nuts-type-d-m6-x-13mm-50-pack/59937?kpid=59937&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx6zjnvzL1QIV7Z3tCh2zrwHtEAQYASABEgJoxfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIietaf8y9UCFYi1UQod-okB3Q

Personally I would use something like the above and M6 machine screws.  I would also wind out the bushes then put a blob of epoxy on them but I am a bit anal like that!

I can see no reason to keep the internals 'original'? Just use good engineering.

Dave.

ICBM

You don't need to get the back off to use T-nuts. Just drill the right size hole through from the front and use a small G-clamp to push them into the baffle via the speaker hole. Use a small piece of soft wood in front so you don't mark the baffle.

Mesa's wood screw method isn't good enough with an EV, even with 8 - they often work loose.

MartinB

Yep, I've used T-nuts on a pair of bass cabs with no removable panels, using a G clamp as suggested.  They do require a little care to avoid pushing on the screw heads when installing the driver.  I like to use Allen head bolts for this, as the tool stays engaged with the head of the bolt without applying pressure.  They're also easy to find in black so they don't show through the grille.  

bean7

Ok - yeah that G-clamp approach makes sense - will give that a go, thanks!

Separate (but related) question; I managed to get hold of an EV speaker, as usual it has a gasket on the front but nothing on the back of the rim, I assume a gasket is needed for the back of the rim when mounting the speaker to the front of the baffle?  

ICBM

bean7 said:

Separate (but related) question; I managed to get hold of an EV speaker, as usual it has a gasket on the front but nothing on the back of the rim, I assume a gasket is needed for the back of the rim when mounting the speaker to the front of the baffle?  

No, because the cabinet is ported so the fitting being airtight is not important.

bean7

ICBM said:

bean7 said:

Separate (but related) question; I managed to get hold of an EV speaker, as usual it has a gasket on the front but nothing on the back of the rim, I assume a gasket is needed for the back of the rim when mounting the speaker to the front of the baffle?  

No, because the cabinet is ported so the fitting being airtight is not important.

Ahh wondered about that - great to know, thanks!