Strat tremolo adjustment

My Strat copy has three springs but the tremolo arm is very stiff (it's not floating). To adjust tension is it literally a case of removing a spring? Any other adjustments needed?
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Comments

  • boogiemanboogieman Frets: 12902
    You don’t need to take a spring out, just undo the screws at the claw end a bit at a time till you get the tension where you want it. You’ll have to keep retuning as you go along. 
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  • boogieman said:
    You don’t need to take a spring out, just undo the screws at the claw end a bit at a time till you get the tension where you want it. You’ll have to keep retuning as you go along. 
    This.

    The screws that adjust the claw set the ‘point’ where the bridge floats above the body - the number of springs alter the tension ‘once’ it’s floating. If you’re using 10 gauge strings - or lighter - three springs should work well. Two with a floating trem will be ‘very’ light and likely to cause tuning issues if you rest your hand on the bridge.
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  • All of the above but if your term is fixed to the body with 6 screws check that they’re not tightened right down as they will impede the free movement of the unit.
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  • notanonnotanon Frets: 628
    edited September 2018
    This video should help out


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  • lincolnbluelincolnblue Frets: 294
    edited November 2020
    I've not got round to changing this for various reasons but want to give it a go to give me some flexibility in using the arm As you can can see in the photo the screws are totally screwed in to the body which must be the reason it's so stiff. If I unscrew then (gradually) is it just re-tuning I need to do or will it need set up adjustment?

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74494
    Is the bridge flat on the body at the moment, or is there a gap under the back edge?

    What string gauge are you using (and tuning if lower than standard)?

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

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  • ICBM said:
    Is the bridge flat on the body at the moment, or is there a gap under the back edge?

    What string gauge are you using (and tuning if lower than standard)?
    The bridge is flat to the body which is what I want ideally. I use 10s on it in standard E tuning
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74494
    lincolnblue said:
    The bridge is flat to the body which is what I want ideally. I use 10s on it in standard E tuning
    In that case you should be able to simply undo the claw screws until just before the point the back of the bridge lifts.

    It's unfortunate that the ground wire has been soldered to the claw hook or you could reduce the tension slightly further by putting the springs parallel as well (as they should be).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • ICBM said:
    lincolnblue said:
    The bridge is flat to the body which is what I want ideally. I use 10s on it in standard E tuning
    In that case you should be able to simply undo the claw screws until just before the point the back of the bridge lifts.

    It's unfortunate that the ground wire has been soldered to the claw hook or you could reduce the tension slightly further by putting the springs parallel as well (as they should be).
    I can always re-solder it. Where would it go? Just on that plate?
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  • FelineGuitarsFelineGuitars Frets: 11978
    tFB Trader
    boogieman said:
    You don’t need to take a spring out, just undo the screws at the claw end a bit at a time till you get the tension where you want it. You’ll have to keep retuning as you go along. 
    This.

    The screws that adjust the claw set the ‘point’ where the bridge floats above the body - the number of springs alter the tension ‘once’ it’s floating. If you’re using 10 gauge strings - or lighter - three springs should work well. Two with a floating trem will be ‘very’ light and likely to cause tuning issues if you rest your hand on the bridge.
    If you are using 9s and want a reliable return to pitch I advocate dropping down to two springs and tightening up the claw  till you get the correct spring tension to balance the string tension. 
    One overlooked issue in  tremolo return to pitch performance is that is is unlikely or much harder if the springs are so unstretched that they risk getting fully closed up at the zero point .
    Yes you have to balance that against how heavily you palm mute , and maybe learn to be less heavy handed if need be. 

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74494
    lincolnblue said:

    I can always re-solder it. Where would it go? Just on that plate?
    In the middle of the plate usually. The difficulty is soldering it on - you'll need a huge iron.

    I prefer to do it by taking the claw off the guitar and heating it in a gas flame until you can melt the solder onto it, then adding the wire into the hot solder.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • ICBM said:
    lincolnblue said:

    I can always re-solder it. Where would it go? Just on that plate?
    In the middle of the plate usually. The difficulty is soldering it on - you'll need a huge iron.

    I prefer to do it by taking the claw off the guitar and heating it in a gas flame until you can melt the solder onto it, then adding the wire into the hot solder.
    Ah ok -  that might be a bit beyond my capabilities!
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