Strap locks and original screws?

zepp76

Hi all,

I have been using Beer bottle washers as strap locks on my LP Goldtop for a while now but as I am upgrading all the hardware I'd like to install something more permanent. I have some Schallers that I could use but I can't use the original screws as the heads are wider than the strap lock holes. I am worried that using the supplied screws that came with the Schallers will chew up the threads in the guitar, is that a problem or am I worrying about nothing? If it is a problem are there any strap locks that allow the use of the original screws please? This may be a stupid question but I have to ask! Thank you for your help.

prowla

Try screwing in the Straplock supplied screws without any force and see if they go in smoothly.

1000s of people have used them, so you'll probably be alright anyway!

ICBM

Not trying to sound funny, but do you care more about keeping the original threads in the wood, or the guitar not falling off the strap?

I would use the straplock screws, and if they're a bit thinner than the originals - the rear one on a Les Paul will be - pack the holes with glue and toothpicks first so the screw is really tight.

There's nothing more pointless than a strap secured really well to a straplock and a screw, with the rest of the guitar on the floor...

Snags

What he said.

I had strap locks on my LP for a while, but the original rear screw was much fatter than the strap lock screw, so inevitably over time the rear button starts to work loose. At the time I was ignorant of the toothpick/glue thing, so I just switched back to the original screws and buttons, and started using the D'Addario/Planet Waves locking straps where the lock is built into the strap end.

Limits your choice of strap somewhat but they work fine, and aren't too fugly.

p90fool

I put Schaller straplocks on my Les Paul,  the supplied screws are much longer than the stock ones and work very well. 

They've never loosened in six years of being thrown around at gigs, partly because the design itself means that your strap pivots easily on the button, rather than gripping the button and potentially unscrewing it like other methods. 

Simon_M

I put Jim Dunlop Straploks on all my guitars. If the hole is too tight then drill it out with a small pilot bit (I think 3mm is right for JDs). If it’s too big then a few cocktail sticks and super glue in the hole then screw into that works ideal. 

FelineGuitars

Simon_M said:

I put Jim Dunlop Straploks on all my guitars. If the hole is too tight then drill it out with a small pilot bit (I think 3mm is right for JDs). If it’s too big then a few cocktail sticks and super glue in the hole then screw into that works ideal. 

1/8" drill ...damn yankees don't do metric

TINMAN82

Other option is the mojoaxe straplock kit

http://www.mojoaxe.com/

Ive used it on my es335 which had the same problem at the bottom strap button. The original screw on the back was small enough for a Schaller button. More elegant than glue and toothpicks IMO.

That said, I’ve also used the long/thinner Schaller screw in the bottom button of my R8 and it’s been fine. 4 years and counting.

ICBM

TINMAN82 said:

Other option is the mojoaxe straplock kit

http://www.mojoaxe.com/

Ive used it on my es335 which had the same problem at the bottom strap button. The original screw on the back was small enough for a Schaller button. More elegant than glue and toothpicks IMO.

That said, I’ve also used the long/thinner Schaller screw in the bottom button of my R8 and it’s been fine. 4 years and counting.

That’s a good solution, but the toothpick - with glue - method is by no means inferior. It’s absolutely rock-solid if you do it the right way - glue, then pack the hole tightly, then put the screw straight in. The compression from the screw will produce an extremely strong thread when the glue dries.

I do this whenever I fit strap buttons - locks or otherwise - if there’s the slightest doubt about being able to tighten the screw up as far as you can by hand. Not everyone bothers to check the buttons are tight regularly... I find loose ones on a lot of guitars I work on.

zepp76

Thank you all for your help and advice, it's much appreciated. What would be the best glue, super or pva wood glue?

ICBM

zepp76 said:

Thank you all for your help and advice, it's much appreciated. What would be the best glue, super or pva wood glue?

Wood glue. Titebond is best, but PVA is fine.

Don't use superglue - firstly it will probably set before you put the screw in, which will defeat the compression which makes the thread really strong, and secondly if it doesn't it will bond the screw to the guitar, so you won't be able to get it out again if you ever need to... or not without doing something drastic like heating it. And third, if any gets on the finish you'll make a nasty mess of it.

Simon_M

PVA is so much more forgiving on the finish than superglue or contact adhesive. I messed up the finish on one of mine with superglue. It was easy to fix with fine wet and dry, t cut and polish but you would probably rather not have to do that at all. 

Legionreturns

I use Dunlop straplocks on all my guitars. Often have to use the toothpick and wood glue trick, works a charm.