1Q22 challenge - New Jaguar build begins - finally!!

stickyfiddle

Some updates this evening. 

Patented “bits of cardboard” under the toggle plate (NOTE: not actually patented). All edges sharpie-d black in case any poke out from under the plate.

I call this photo “ah.. beans”. Yes - two of those holes are drilled twice and filled twice. I overestimated the adjustment needed… all is ok now. It’s a relic, right..?!

Of course I now realise this was all because of the pickguard, despite it supposedly being an AV65 spec. I managed to move the guard a couple of mm after judicious trimming. It’s MUCH neater now. 

Photo is before I moved the top control plate to demonstrate how far it’s all moved.



I have also: tightened the staytrem, tightened the truss rod, fitted new tuners & string trees, and given the neck a decent polish. 

Getting there!

stickyfiddle

Soo...

• tighten the staytrem collet 
• finesse position of guard and control plates.
  
• fit new tuners
  
• polish the neck 
  
• string tree
  
• truss rod
  
• a couple of layers of cardboard under the toggle plate to raise that flush with the pickguard
• amber switch tip - HUGELY important
  
• nudge the placement of the rhythm pots as one is scraping just slightly on something 

Still to do:

• a couple of layers of cardboard between the top plate and switch to lower that just a tiny bit
  
• lower nut - it's a good 0.5mm too high at the moment. 
  
• maybe a bone nut, the current one is too high, but sounds ok and tuning seems solid
• shielding. Have ordered a full jaguar cavity plate set which should help a great deal. Those come with appropriate foam for under the pickups
• get a better main vol pot as it's bobbins, despite being CTS custom
• decal 
• final check of action & intonation. They're already not bad but can always be improved

Deadman

I know it’s only a minor detail but I really love the colour and appearance of the switch tip.

stickyfiddle

Deadman said:

I know it’s only a minor detail but I really love the colour and appearance of the switch tip.

It was genuinely very important to me that it wasn’t black or white. Makes a huge difference

Deadman

I’m gonna have to get one for my LP. I reckon it’d go lovely with my all black plastics.

stickyfiddle

It's been 3 months so an update is overdue.

Volume pot - Having played it a whole bunch it doesn't need a new volume pot, but the treble is all gone by 8 on the dial, so it does need a treble pass on the main volume control

Rolled fretboard edges. I don't understand how anyone can play on a guitar with a square fretboard. 

and finally...

Mastery vs Staytrem (round #249?) 
And perhaps most interestingly, I took off the Mastery bridge and tried a Staytrem with the wrong radius (9.5" bridge, 7.25" board) and it sounds much more "Jaguary" as a result. I think it's more plinky now, which seems to be the essence of the Jag sound far more than the Jazzmaster. I also think it might benefit from a drop from 11s to 10s... 

Still to sort: 
Trem is sticking for some reason. I hope I don't need to move the mounting holes. It might just need loosening a little. 

Nut still needs to come down a bit more - nuff said. 

Headstock decal, because it's not mine until it has my name on it. 

Roland

These “settling in” adjustments are as important as the original build. Things like Mastery vs Staytrem are fascinating.

stickyfiddle

Roland said:

These “settling in” adjustments are as important as the original build. Things like Mastery vs Staytrem are fascinating.

100% agree. 

I'm actually somewhat baffled with the Mastery vs Staytrem thing. I loved the ST on my Jazzmaster until I tried a Mastery. But the Mastery makes the Jag sound more like a Telecaster - almost too much sustain, which defeats the point of having a Jag. 

I have a feeling this process is actually going to show me I'm much more a JM guy than a Jag guy but it's fun to do and it'll certainly be a great guitar when I'm done, which is a nice feeling. It's also why I don't understand why Nash has some many fans. They always sound great but I've never played one that felt like a good instrument - square fretboards, occasional sharp fret ends, saddle screws that dig into your hand etc. I'm pretty sure this is why the likes of Danocaster are so revered - anyone can put together a partscaster, but it's that final fine adjustment and optimising everything that makes for a really great instrument. (I am not putting myself on that level btw, but I try!)

Some pics of this fretboard: 

Stupid square edges 

Lovely softened edges. These probably want a tiny bit more finessing but they're much more comfy

Roland

I like those square edges, as long as they’re not actually sharp. Think of how many guitars you’d have to buy and sell to learn as much as you do from one build, or someone else’s build choices.

stickyfiddle

Cheekily tagging @GavRichList and @meltedbuzzbox for their latest thoughts on Mastery/Staytrem with regard to plinkiness of Jags in particular...  

GavRichList

Staytrem for me! 

Have had both on this over the years, and prefer the Staytrem. Mastery’s always end up letting me down - they do rattle a bit, and I can never stop fiddling with them. Staytrem is zero fuss, and I’d say better for the vibrato. 

stickyfiddle

Good to know I'm not going mad with bridges. 

I do like the Mastery on the JM but i've amazed myself how much I prefer the ST on the Jag

roberty

Can't believe I've missed this thread until now. Looks great @stickyfiddle, what a complicated thing to set up let alone assemble. So many bits and bobbies

impmann

stickyfiddle said:

Still to sort: 
Trem is sticking for some reason. I hope I don't need to move the mounting holes. It might just need loosening a little. 

You may get away with relieving the inside of the trem cavity with a dremel or similar. I had similar on a Guitarbuild body - the front treble side of the plate was just fouling on the inside of the cavity. Five mins with a sanding drum and it was sorted.

stickyfiddle

impmann said:

stickyfiddle said:

Still to sort: 
Trem is sticking for some reason. I hope I don't need to move the mounting holes. It might just need loosening a little. 

You may get away with relieving the inside of the trem cavity with a dremel or similar. I had similar on a Guitarbuild body - the front treble side of the plate was just fouling on the inside of the cavity. Five mins with a sanding drum and it was sorted.

Yup that'll be my first thing to try- just a chunky bit of sandpaper may even be enough if that's the issue. I'm (fairly) sure it's not a huge issue

stickyfiddle

roberty said:

Can't believe I've missed this thread until now. Looks great @stickyfiddle, what a complicated thing to set up let alone assemble. So many bits and bobbies

Haha cheers. Full bokeh-soaked glamour shots will eventually follow but I need to tweak a bit more first. 

As I said in the sparkle Squier thread t'other day, I can't fathom why the cavities aren't all joined up at the very least. Maybe so you'd never see a gap if the plates weren't perfectly aligned but man it's a hassle to wire up. 

stickyfiddle

Who invented curved bottomed nuts? AND WHY!?!

Sticky sandpaper to the rescue

I now have the action in a place that I notice the outer strings are too high due to the radius mismatch, so that’s probably low enough on the nut for now. I'm also on the waiting list for a 7.25" Staytrem.

(Let me know if anyone here has one spare!)

UnclePsychosis

Looks fantastic. Great work. 

Although all the faff with the bridge reminds me of exactly why I'm never going to own a Jag. 

stickyfiddle

Haha, there's no real faff needed - just buy a Staytrem!  

Though I do appreciate if this was a Tele I'd have concluded the thread in early April..

WezV

Why not try this bridge mod

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CgiCSV9NTA2/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=