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Once there are power valves in it's a good idea to have some load on it even without a signal going through it - there are a very few amps which are unstable with no load and will self-oscillate, which is effectively the same as cranking the amp up with no load. It's not common though, and assuming you've connected the NFB loop up correctly the Bassman isn't one of them. Any load of roughly the right impedance is fine, it doesn't have to be accurate or capable of taking the full power of the amp.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
So I would venture that you would be safer with something (speaker or dummy load) that *can* take the full power of the amp, at least for a short time.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
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Bandcamp
Spotify, Apple et al
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
You should always run an "experimental" up with a load and voltmeter and or scope on the output.
A good substitute is a 22W car lamp which has a "burning" resistance of ~6.5 R close enough to 4 or 8 for jazz and if the amp IS instable it will glow quite well.
In the PA game with 100V line amps we used a main neon. These "strike" at about 90V but if there was any ultrasonic instability they would glow like a toc H lamp!
Dave.