Truss rod jammed - any success stories?

EndlessDream

Hello again, all.

A seperate issue to my Martin issue. 

So I have an Ozark acoustic and it's truss rod is totally stuck. I just wanted to loosen it a wee bit but it won't budge, even with a lot of pressure. The truss is in the sound hole. 

I called a guitar shop and they said this situation "usually ends in tears" and weren't positive about it being able to be resolved. 

Not that I don't trust them, they know more than I. But I would like to know if anyone has had this issue resolved? Any success stories? 

Cheers! 

ICBM

Have you got a bench or table and a large enough clamp to hold down the endpin end of the body (plus thickness of material to protect it)? If not, a helper who could hold it down?

If so, clamp that end of the guitar down with the headstock hanging over the other end. Bend the neck downwards/backwards - that will release some of the tension on the rod and make it easier to turn the nut if the main problem is friction against the adjuster plate.

If the nut has rusted onto the rod that's more difficult, although it still may help to free it. You could try squirting a *small* amount of WD-40 into the hole - don't overdo it and saturate the wood.

You might be surprised how much force you need to apply to break or strip a truss rod too - don't be afraid of using quite a lot of effort. If you can't get the short end of the Allen key to reach, use the long end and put a piece of tubing over the short end to give you more leverage.

EndlessDream

ICBM said:

Have you got a bench or table and a large enough clamp to hold down the endpin end of the body (plus thickness of material to protect it)? If not, a helper who could hold it down?

If so, clamp that end of the guitar down with the headstock hanging over the other end. Bend the neck downwards/backwards - that will release some of the tension on the rod and make it easier to turn the nut if the main problem is friction against the adjuster plate.

If the nut has rusted onto the rod that's more difficult, although it still may help to free it. You could try squirting a *small* amount of WD-40 into the hole - don't overdo it and saturate the wood.

You might be surprised how much force you need to apply to break or strip a truss rod too - don't be afraid of using quite a lot of effort. If you can't get the short end of the Allen key to reach, use the long end and put a piece of tubing over the short end to give you more leverage.

Thanks for the advice.

I dont have the equipment, but i can grab a helper. 


I'll add some WD40 and try that first. 

The only way i could put more force on it is if i put some bodyweight into it  

ToneControl

just in case you don't know what the point of wd40 is:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penetrating_oil

AFAIK
apply some, then leave the guitar in the position where some might flow by gravity down into the locked threads

Another option is heat or cold, depending on which piece of metal you can apply it to, the outer or inner

artiebear

ICBM said:

Have you got a bench or table and a large enough clamp to hold down the endpin end of the body (plus thickness of material to protect it)? If not, a helper who could hold it down?

If so, clamp that end of the guitar down with the headstock hanging over the other end. Bend the neck downwards/backwards - that will release some of the tension on the rod and make it easier to turn the nut if the main problem is friction against the adjuster plate.

If the nut has rusted onto the rod that's more difficult, although it still may help to free it. You could try squirting a *small* amount of WD-40 into the hole - don't overdo it and saturate the wood.

You might be surprised how much force you need to apply to break or strip a truss rod too - don't be afraid of using quite a lot of effort. If you can't get the short end of the Allen key to reach, use the long end and put a piece of tubing over the short end to give you more leverage.

Great advice, I have used variations on this method many times. We tend to be conditioned by manufacturers advice not to touch the truss rod without professional input. In truth, the physics are pretty basic, while ensuring that you work in reasonably small steps.

thermionic

WD40 isn’t a penetrating oil although it’s often tried in such situations. If you have some, proper penetrating oil might have a better chance of success.

stephen.wood125

thermionic said:

WD40 isn’t a penetrating oil although it’s often tried in such situations. If you have some, proper penetrating oil might have a better chance of success.

This, a can of Plusgas is a lot cheaper than a new trussrod. (£5-6) WD= Water Displacement.

ICBM

thermionic said:

WD40 isn’t a penetrating oil although it’s often tried in such situations.

It's not only often tried, it very often works.

stephen.wood125 said:

WD= Water Displacement.

That's what it was originally intended for, yes - that doesn't mean it doesn't have a host of other uses.

EndlessDream

An update. 

After giving it an injection of WD40 and literally putting some body weight into the allen key, it turned!  Stiff as all hell but a lot better now and turning. 

I'm surprised at just how much force i had to put into the bugger to get it moving. I had to wrap a sock around the allen key to stop it cutting into my hand!