Spray Painting Set Neck Guitar

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Well I thought it is about time I finished of my LPJish Chinese kit (ish because the control holes are out) but other than that it is good. The pressure is on a bit as I'm moving area and won't have a garage to go to but in the same token I don't want to rush it and mess it up.

I set the neck a couple of days ago and have set out the bridge placement (my 2014 Melody Maker was a great reference point), I'll use a mates drill press tomorrow hopefully and get that sorted.



From there I think I'll get it properly fret leveled before finishing. (Would you do this before finishing?)

Finishing I'm going to go Manchester Guitar Tech (rattle cans) TV Yellow route. I keep looking for a way to paint a set-neck guitar and avoid runs but I only find info on painting guitar bodies, though I'm sure I have found stuff in the past (should have bookmarked it).

Help and advice appreciated:-)
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Comments

  • WezVWezV Frets: 16960
    i put a brass hook in the bottom strap button hole, then I can hold it by the neck whilst I spray the body, and then hang it up to do the neck

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  • Thanks Wez. So simple... and that's just me:-)

    Simon
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  • DougDoug Frets: 172
    Tuners on upside down bud  ;)
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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1373
    There are few details here on how I sprayed a set neck DC Jr in TV yellow.

    https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/184574/another-lp-junior-dc-build-finished/p2

    It looks like your body isn't mahogany, so the look of the grain might end up a bit different.

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  • Doug said:
    Tuners on upside down bud  ;)
    Thankfully I'd only pushed them in!
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  • davros said:
    There are few details here on how I sprayed a set neck DC Jr in TV yellow.

    https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/184574/another-lp-junior-dc-build-finished/p2

    It looks like your body isn't mahogany, so the look of the grain might end up a bit different.

    It is mean't to be mahogany, the colour is definitely washed out in the photo in comparison to in the flesh but who knows what I've been sent:-)

    Many thanks for the link!
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  • Hopefully going to start the paint process having bought various nitrocellulose lacquers and fillers.

    I'll be following Steve Robinson/Manchester Guitar Tech guide the bit I can't get right in my head is masking and when to remove masking!

    Do I remove masking after each coat of paint?

    Or do I mask then complete all painting?

    If it is the latter, won't removing the masking damage the edge of the paint?

    Help appreciated:-) 
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16960
    edited October 2020
    leave the masking tape on until you need to remove it, but try not to leave it on too long if you are doing detailing masking like binding.... try to get all the coats prior to clear done relatively quickly so the tape can come off quickly

    pull the tape when the guitar is touch dry, not fully cured.  try to pull off at an angle away from the paint line to avoid pulling the paint up


    if its just the fretboard face being masked, you can worry less about all that.  Even if the edge is a bit rough, you can smooth it out when cleaning/dressing the frets after the tape is pulled.  

    I love wilkos washi masking tape.   its low tack ,but leaves very clean lines.   although this tape is definitely best pulled within 2-3 days for the least amount or residue




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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1373
    Wez is way more experienced that me with this, but what I did for the TV yellow is...

    Mask the fretboard face and sides, just a fraction above where the neck wood meets the fretboard. I use some good quality green 12mm tape for the edge and then cover the bigger areas in cheapo beige stuff. Spray your white base coat.

    When the paint is touch dry but not super hard remove the masking tape, doubling it back on itself to break the paint without pulling it away from the neck.

    You'll almost certainly have a small raised edge where the paint pooled next to the masking tape. I very lightly knock this back with 400 grit, being careful not to sand through. Just enough that there's not a sticky out sharp edge.

    Next, repeat the masking, going just a fraction of a mm higher than the white basecoat. This ensures the colour coat covers the white and you don't get a thin strip of white showing. Repeat spraying / remove masking / knock back the sharp edge.

    Next mask just the fretboard face, being careful to push the tape into the edges of the frets to avoid lots of overspray and clean-up later. Spray all of your clear coats and remove the tape an hour or so after the last coat. Use a razor blade or sandpaper to soften the lacquer edge beside the fretboard. That will get softened further when you do your fret job.
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  • Great, thank you both for the info you have given me a bit more confidence for when I start.

    Wez, when you say try not to leave the tape on too long... what would you say max time you'd allow?

    I've got my hook ready to hang the guitar for spraying, can you advise where am I best starting and what areas are most likely to attract runs? My thoughts are to start on the edges of the body, back, front, headstock edges, face then neck!
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  • I have tried Reranch satin nitro and yes, it is very easy to paint but yes, it takes time and patience is required between coats. By the way, your guitar is looking good. 
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