Odd way to attach a pickup cover? (Maxon, Japan)

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Recently picked up what I think is a 1980 guitar or at least early 80s with Maxon PAF type pickups.

No markings on either neck or bridge beyond red (neck) and blue (bridge) wires.

Curiously, the covers are pretty much loose, barely held on by some easily removable glue-gun glue. Originally, there is some reddish goop/shellac/laquer type substance along the edges.

Anyone have any idea what that substance might be if I were to return it to its original state (as opposed to just soldering them)?

I was able to find the same pickups on Reverb by chance but no more info other than measurements.

Have also added a photo of the wiring for curiosity and the board which looks like Brazilian Rosewood from the pore structure.


IMG-9096 F21-E13-C1-B77-A-41-B7-8-D38-81-EA8-C312-C85-2 IMG-9110 IMG-9106
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  • Some digging yielded this - form a likely older Maxon, but similar setup. This site is a good resource for Greco pickup info, open with chrome and google translate

    <Made in 1972 # 12X10>

    The sample I own is the one with the oldest production date stamp printed on it.

    The guitar that was installed because it was obtained as a single pickup is unknown, but it seems that it was installed in a relatively high-end model because there are traces of gold plating on the pole piece.

     (1) As a feature of appearance, the top of the movable pole piece is flat.

      I've been to a pretty good line, but it's still not in the “Don's Ba Gibson” range.

     (2) The base plate is made of brass. Rubber adhesive for fixing covers and pole pieces

      Is used, but it deteriorates over time and shrinks slightly. Also from the hole on the right

      It was mounted on the rear (bridge side) because the OUTPUT cable came out.

      I understand. The pole piece itself is also considerably thicker than the Gibson specifications.

     (3) The date of manufacture by date stamp can be confirmed as November 10, 1972 (Friday).

      It is very difficult to confirm due to the oxidation of the base plate, but there is a Maxon stamp.

     (4) No matter which side of the cover you look at, you will not find the NO stamp on the U-1000 or later.

      This is probably due to the Maxon engraving on the base plate

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 73049
    If you’ve got a powerful enough soldering iron I would solder them on. It does a better job and guarantees a proper electrical connection.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Cheers @icbm I suspected that might be the case. The bridge was completely loose so popped it open. Looks like the plate is soldered/grounded from the inside. Curiously, clear bobbins!
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 73049
    The baseplate is grounded, but the cover is only so by the contact with it around the edge - although unlikely, it’s possible enough corrosion could get in to stop the electrical connection. If that happens then the cover will cease to be a shield and actually cause noise when you touch it. They’re just glued on because it’s quicker and cheaper than soldering.

    To solder the cover you’ll need to scrape both the cover and the baseplate clean where you want the solder to bond to it too.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Cheers!

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