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I've used mine for years with 20 & 30 watt Marshalls - The tone is incredible - maybe you loose a *tiny* bit of treble, but I still have to turn down treble & presence anyway to suit.
id say go for one if your priority is bedroom levels,
There are now quite a lot of these "attenuators" which are really dummy load/re-amp boxes - the Fryette does use a valve power amp, most others I know of are solid-state. While it's true that they can be used to do the same job, they are *not* attenuators in the strict sense and I agree that they shouldn't be marketed as such. They do also have an advantage over a conventional/true attenuator, in that you can run effects in between the load and the re-amp, which can be useful for some things - but it's important to realise that what comes out of the speaker is not actually from your amp, it's a different amp and it won't necessarily react the same dynamically even if the tone is close.
There's a simple way to tell which is which - if it's got a power cable, it's not an attenuator, it's a re-amp.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
It's an important distinction. Marketing it as something which it can perform a similar function to but is completely different in operation isn't really right. Imagine if someone built a modelling amp and marketed it as a valve amp because it can perform a similar function - would that be OK?
A dummy load and reamplifier in a box is not an attenuator, if anything it's an amplifier.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
something like the slash head, a common matching cab would be a 16 ohm Marshall 4x12, 25 watts would not likely be enough for the type of music where you were using a head like that.
Totally agree it’s marketed as a studio tool, but the details they leave out of the material can make people assume wrongly, just like I did and ICBM
Heres the two notes page for the reload
https://www.two-notes.com/torpedo-reload
https://wiki.two-notes.com/doku.php?id=torpedo_reload:torpedo_reload_user_s_manual - Section 5.7 Technical Data
No, especially as given that it's solid-state it won't be as perceptively loud as a 25W valve amp either, even through a 4x12".
I'm sure it's a great-sounding piece of kit, but not making it clear in the main description that the output is lower power inevitably comes across that they're hiding something, which they shouldn't be.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
https://www.two-notes.com/torpedo-captor
edit, yes, sorry see what you mean I said Torpedo
Dont get me wrong I think the products are great it’s just the marketing that’s less than transparent that winds me up.
I am using a Marshall Class 5 head, into a 4x12, at home.
I use it as a clean pedal platform, and have had good results with a Weber mass 150, which is ex BBC.
I say had, because recently I have experienced a problem with the low / mid control.These have 2 large variable resistor / speaker motor type controls which are supposed to allow attenuation to either low / mid or mid / high, with switches for bypass and low / high range.
This was working fine until I tried to adjust it recently, and now the low / high knob has jammed.
I like to use the Class 5 with volume up to a point where the power section is starting to work, and there's not a lot of options for tone shaping, so it is important for me to keep the highs, I liked the Weber for the adjustability.
My fallback is a Marshall PB, and with a few tweaks, I think it is just as effective.
It was my first attenuator, bought to try and tame a 50w mk3 JCM 900 in the home, which I could not get to work, even with the JCM set to 25w. The tone suck was noticeable, which led me into the Class 5 route, I have 4 of them, 2 stock and 2 RAT modded, both heads and combos.
I realise the amps I am using are nothing like your Slash, and we are using attenuators for very different sounds, there is no real solution to the effect of high volume, on both valve and speakers, although I would expect you can get closer with MV amps.
My journey stopped there when I began to use IRs for recording, and studio sounds, it just seems easier. I can take a line out from my RAT modded Class 5, but using a DI and amp sim is good enough for me.
Another possible route, is to use an ISO cab, which is something I would like to try one day.
Again, this is not a solution to the volume problem, as this would be a mic / monitor situation, but at least it would be the true tone of the amp, and I think something like the Boss tube amp expander is the most effective device at this point, for all uses.
So have tried it with my Synergy module rig and so far I’m very impressed. Have managed to get the power amp section wound up and the reload is doing a great job. No tone loss that I can hear