Super fine grit sandpaper supplier? 2000+

ThePrettyDamned

It's easy to get 3m wetordry in 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit, and it's easy to find little micromesh pads up to 12000 grit - is it possible to get a good wet-friendly sandpaper on grits similar to the micromesh pads?

The pads are okay, but they are small and can't be held with a block. I also found some inconsistencies on some (such as the cutting surface being over applied to some parts of the pads, rather than being perfectly even).

Also, I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good polish for those final stages of buffing to a gloss? I tried Halfords and, while not entirely horrible, it wasn't amazing - I've used autoglym on the car in the past which seemed decent... 

Advice appreciated! 

vanlooy1

I’ve used the Dartfords 3 stage polish with pretty good results, do you really need to go higher than 2000 before polishing?

vanlooy1

https://www.rothkoandfrost.com/guitar-making-supplies-c83/finishing-c15/polishing-c27/dartfords-complete-hand-polishing-kit-for-paints-and-lacquers-p109

ThePrettyDamned

vanlooy1 said:

I’ve used the Dartfords 3 stage polish with pretty good results, do you really need to go higher than 2000 before polishing?

I'm not sure really - maybe I just need good cutting compounds instead. Certainly going beyond 2000 works - it gives a shiny, super slick surface but then again if polishing compounds does the same job more easily I'm open to it.

I don't have a buffing wheel or anything though so it needs to be workable by hand! 2000 grit is still pretty satin. 

ThePrettyDamned

vanlooy1 said:

https://www.rothkoandfrost.com/guitar-making-supplies-c83/finishing-c15/polishing-c27/dartfords-complete-hand-polishing-kit-for-paints-and-lacquers-p109

@vanlooy1 sounds excellent! I'll definitely look into it. I rather assumed it was more for nitro/lacquer finishes but it says it works on plastics so should be fine for polyurethane. 

Thank you! 

vanlooy1

I would think the polishing compound would get you there with plenty of elbow grease!

ThePrettyDamned

vanlooy1 said:

I would think the polishing compound would get you there with plenty of elbow grease!

I've got bags of that!

I found some 4000 grit 3M on ebay so I might order a sheet of that as well to help get there a bit quicker, especially in the tricky curvy bits, but I'll definitely try this stuff out. 

GoldenEraGuitars

You need to visit an independent motor component store, a good stockist will have all the wet and dry paper plus buffing compound you’ll ever need.

ThePrettyDamned

GoldenEraGuitars said:

You need to visit an independent motor component store, a good stockist will have all the wet and dry paper plus buffing compound you’ll ever need.

Just before I read this I found a couple of stores that sell all sorts of stuff! I'm going to try one that sells what seems to be micro mesh on cloth in a good size for me (6x4 inch) and a compound called micro gloss, which seems like an ideal final step to get things shiny.

If that does not work, I'll look at automotive industry for their tricks.  

GoldenEraGuitars

You really only need to go to 2000 wet and dry and then find a coarse buffing compound followed by a fine compound to finish a guitar nicely. 

ThePrettyDamned

GoldenEraGuitars said:

You really only need to go to 2000 wet and dry and then find a coarse buffing compound followed by a fine compound to finish a guitar nicely. 

Any recommendations? The kit vanlooy1 recommended sounds pretty ace so I'll probably plump for that given this. 

CasperCaster

With regard to Micromesh an important  point to remember is that their grading system is NOT the 'P' grading system used to describe other abrasives. The Micromesh system is more coarse than 'P' grading. I don't have the specific information to hand, but a P2000 paper abrasive might be equivent to something like 3000 on the Micromesh scale. As I said, I don't have the specific info to hand, but it is something to be aware of, and the information is out there, presumably on the Micromesh website or from suppliers. 

ToneControl

ThePrettyDamned

Yes, I saw that - I'm going to give the compounds recommended above a go from 2000 grit, and see where that lands me. Should be good! 

GoldenEraGuitars

Farecla and 3M compounds are fab, but it’s trial and error. You’ll want a coarse and fine compound. It’s also hard to look past T cut for the final polish.

euan

3M Fast Cut Plus was something I'd use daily in my previous painting job. No bother at all polishing P2000 wet+dry

Zoolooter

Dartfords stage 1 & 2 is all you will need.

ThePrettyDamned

Many thanks to all - the dartfords kit has been tested this morning and HOLY COW is it good stuff. First test failed because I forgot to shake them - but now one test piece has a gorgeous, near-factory gloss having done it by hand in a rush with a t-shirt. Extremely happy with the results, and feeling confident of a beautiful shiny finish in a thin polyurethane.

hywelg

GoldenEraGuitars said:

Farecla and 3M compounds are fab, but it’s trial and error. You’ll want a coarse and fine compound. It’s also hard to look past T cut for the final polish.

David Dyke sells a Burnishing Cream which imo I'd say better than t-cut

ThePrettyDamned

There is a burnishing cream available from chestnut products as well.

To be honest, the standard of finish I've achieved on my test pieces is honestly fairly close to a factory finish. The things I need to watch out for now are burning through the clear coat when level sanding, and minimising drips when applying (as drips are more likely to lead to me burning the area next door!).

I will leave the neck at 1500 or 2000 grit I think - it's *incredibly* slick. Puts satin finishes to shame - it's still got something of a hazey sheen, but it's like ice in terms of how slick it is. 

The body I'll obviously gloss up as much as possible.