Oil/wax finish over a spirit stain ?

Jazzthat

So , I have stained some wood ( home project  )with crimson guitars spirit stain and wanted to finish it with some oil for protection .
I went to the local shop to get a tin of osmo wood finish , but I got told , that this won't work over  the stain .
Apparently my only choice is to use either lacquer or varnish .
Any advice on that ?

ThePrettyDamned

I don't see why it wouldn't work, but it might lift some of the stain off. I suppose it could be a chemical thing. 

To reduce this you can use a sanding sealer. Chestnut sell a water based acrylic sealer that will do the trick. Not sure how osmo will adhere to that though.

WezV

Osmo definitely does work over stain.  

The issue with any wipe on finish over stain is it can lift some colour as you rub the oil in. 

Osmo is particularly good for this compared to other oils as it builds and hardens more, so you need less rubbing on those early coats.

I don't recommend danish or tru oil with colour as for me they involve a lot more rubbing, which will lift stain. I have tinted both with success, but not for a strong even colour... just a vintage tint on maple or something like that. 

Some people do use Tru-Oil like a lacquer, building up coats.  it can work with stain if used that way, but i use lacquer when that is the look i want

Im sure the crimson finishing oil would be a good option too, but not one i have used

whatever you use, testing on scrap is wise

Roland

I’ve happily used Osmo over stain.  If you rub then you can get pale spots. Put the first coat on quickly, and thinly so that you don’t have to wipe any off afterwards. Let it dry. 

Something I want to try is putting dye pigment into Osmo. I’ve done it with opaque oil paint pigments, but not yet tried translucent/transparent pigments.

Jazzthat

Sounds like I could give it a go with osmo . The instructions on the tin says brush application , so I probably less mess than rubbing it in ? 
The small shelve is meant to look good , though I don't mind a slight change in colour as long as it won't leave uneven smears all over .

impmann

I’ve used Tru Oil over the Crimson stain on this:

Andyjr1515

Jazzthat said:

Sounds like I could give it a go with osmo . The instructions on the tin says brush application , so I probably less mess than rubbing it in ? 
 .

Another vote for Osmo here - especially if you are after a satin finish.  Easiest product to use with one of the best results for satin IMHO.

And, if you are doing satin with Osmo, then wipe it on - don't use a brush.  And - if you are going for something like Polyx 3032 Clear Satin, there is no rubbing involved (their 'Half Matt' 3065 Fablos halbmatt is pretty much the same).  

-Take a lint-free soft cloth (I use the '4 soft polishing cloths' packs that Halfords sell but a T shirt would work just at well)

- Put a decent amount on a bunched up area of the cloth

- Wipe it on, lightly and as evenly as you can

- Lightly wipe any excess off and/or rewipe over any patch that's been missed.  I just use the same bit of Osmo dampened cloth that is now just damp rather than wet with the Osmo.

- Let it dry at least overnight

- Repeat, using a clean part of the cloth.

Sometimes it needs a third application but, pretty much, that's it.  Done this way, it won't pick up the stain.  After the final coat, leave it at least a week to fully harden.

If it's gloss you are after, then actually I don't recommend Osmo - not that it's any more difficult but because it doesn't produce a particularly good gloss.

There is a way of producing a decent similar finish with Tru-oil, but there's a bit more involved to avoid taking stain away.

Jazzthat

Andyjr1515 said:

Jazzthat said:

Sounds like I could give it a go with osmo . The instructions on the tin says brush application , so I probably less mess than rubbing it in ? 
 .

Another vote for Osmo here - especially if you are after a satin finish.  Easiest product to use with one of the best results for satin IMHO.

And, if you are doing satin with Osmo, then wipe it on - don't use a brush.  And - if you are going for something like Polyx 3032 Clear Satin, there is no rubbing involved (their 'Half Matt' 3065 Fablos halbmatt is pretty much the same).  

-Take a lint-free soft cloth (I use the '4 soft polishing cloths' packs that Halfords sell but a T shirt would work just at well)

- Put a decent amount on a bunched up area of the cloth

- Wipe it on, lightly and as evenly as you can

- Lightly wipe any excess off and/or rewipe over any patch that's been missed.  I just use the same bit of Osmo dampened cloth that is now just damp rather than wet with the Osmo.

- Let it dry at least overnight

- Repeat, using a clean part of the cloth.

Sometimes it needs a third application but, pretty much, that's it.  Done this way, it won't pick up the stain.  After the final coat, leave it at least a week to fully harden.

If it's gloss you are after, then actually I don't recommend Osmo - not that it's any more difficult but because it doesn't produce a particularly good gloss.

There is a way of producing a decent similar finish with Tru-oil, but there's a bit more involved to avoid taking stain away.

Thanks for detailed instructions . I am aiming for Matt finish and ideally only one application rather than 2 or 3 .
I only want to make sure it is not a bare wood as it will be hang on the wall in the kitchen .
Tbh I was happy with just stained wood untill I started to look more excuses to kill time  
By the way , I bought osmo 3062b . Would you still recommend cloth application or a brush would do ?

Andyjr1515

Jazzthat said:

By the way , I bought osmo 3062b . Would you still recommend cloth application or a brush would do ?

I personally would still use a cloth.  All but the 1101 version (which isn't matt but is a lot thinner) tend to be a bit stiff for brushing for guitars and are not very self-levelling - so you are likely to end up with brush ripples.  It's designed for wooden floors and similar - brushing here is fine but you want a better surface for a guitar.

One coat may be fine...but each coat is only a 5 minute job max and so a couple more coats over a couple more days (the day is simply for it to harden between coats) will give you a better result.  It only means 10 minutes more effort...