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My first mistake - and it's pretty fundamental - is to scrape before clear coating. I didn't and it made the job considerably more difficult and resulted in a poorer finish.
The outer body binding (as opposed to the f-holes) is straightforward. It's probably easy enough to do with a blade held carefully but I made myself a little tool as shown on Youtube and that worked well.
The tool won't go into the f-holes so I made myself a small tool using a narrow file. Getting the angle right is difficult but I ended up using a grinding wheel then a file and some time - it can't be rushed. I actually made the tool twice because if you're scraping an empty edge ie not the guitar body, a longer tool will minimise the chance of the tool slipping out and damaging the body.
Even so, the clear coat hardened the binding and made the job much less straightforward and I ended up buying a carpentry scraper.
In future, I'll scrape first then clearcoat everything - even in a treatment like the one I'm working on at present which has a coloured, deep sea green matte finish on the front and back of the body and the headstock and gloss over a light wood stain on the sides of the body. I only ever finish my necks with Boiled Linseed Oil - as a player, I find it the best compromise between speed of playing and a decent finish. The colourway works especially well with gold finish hardware.
Hope that helps someone.
Generally i mask the inside as much as possible then scrape the outside. No special tool for scraping, but i never use a special tool for any binding scraping. I just use a blade , slightly angled on tricky spots like this
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