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Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
Individual mounting saddles are best for bridge.
Worth cutting the fretboard to shape before slotting so you can then mark fret positions down each edge.
Although be aware the actual scale length for the outer strings will be slightly more/less than the distances marked on the edge of the board. I.e. 25"-27" marked on the edges will give you slightly more than 25" on the high e string, and slightly less than 27" on the low E. Not really a problem, but some like to adjust measurements accordingly.
Makes sense to have the "perp"(fret that is perpendicular to the centre line) between 5th and 12th fret depending where you want the fan to be. If you want the nut less angled so chords feel more familiar, put the perp closer to the nut like 5th fret. If its a shredder, push it towards the 12th.
You can go as far as having the nut or bridge as the perp, which some refer to as a half fan. Having it at the bridge means you can use normal hardware, but can give a very angled nut. It still works well with smaller differences in scale lengths, not so erll with extreme fans
I tend to mark each side of the board, checking fret to fret and nut to fret distances carefully on each one. Then scribe between each side and clamp a block on the board to act as a guide for each fret. Slow going but works well enough without making jigs for repeatability.
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When you play, it is easy unless you look at the fingerboard! However it really feels comfortable and it fits with the Firebird shape.