Too many holes drilled

lapua65

Completely ballsed up drilling a tele control plate today. Drilled it in place without the rather large freeway switch in place and when I fitted it I had to re drill one of the holes for it to line up with the switch in place. Unfortunately I managed to bugger that up and when I screw the plate down I have a 1mm gap along half of the plate that I can see into the cavity. The problem I now have is 2 x 2.4mm holes about 2mm apart but I need the 2.4mm hole between the holes. So I need to fill both these holes and drill between them. Any advice gladly received.

Roland

Pictures would help us understand what the options are.

Devil#20

KwikWood Epoxy Putty

https://houseofglues.com/j-b-weld-kwikwood-epoxy-putty/

ICBM

Drill them out cleanly and glue in hardwood dowels, making sure they’re a very tight fit in the holes. I would probably use thin cyanoacrylate, as it will penetrate into the wood and sets very hard. When fully hardened you should be able to drill the new hole.

Funkfingers

The real problem is the Freeway 3B3 selector switch. Its PCB extends further beyond the switch mounting screw than any CRL or Oriental eight-in-line switch.

Some control cavities are longer than others. I found that the switch fitted perfectly into a Squier Silver Series Telecaster. The same was not true of a Fender AVRI model.

This week, I have been mostly hacking into a G&L Tribute series ASAT Classic. To give myself the option of installing a Freeway 3B3 selector switch, I have enlarged the control cavity slightly.

This amounts to squaring up the corner of the cavity nearest the bridge. The cut will be concealed beneath the control plate. 

If you are one of those Tele players who reverses the control plate, square up the corner of the control cavity nearest the jack socket.

lapua65

Thanks all. I drilled out the holes to 3mm and glued some 3mm dowel I had. Tiny bit of wood glue and job was done, Pretty much as ICBM stated.As for the freeway I think they made a blunder as the side with the PCB is on the main body side and in nearly all cases I can think of (but I am very new to this) the cable will come from there, It makes it a very tight fit with the cable in place,
Thanks again all

Funkfingers

The *blunder* with the Freeway 3B3 switch is that, of necessity, its PCB lies off-centre. This matters not in a Telecaster Thinline. In a regular T type, the PCB fouls the rounded end of the control cavity.

Thinking back, I think that the control plate of the Squier Silver Series T may have been Metric rather than Imperial. The switch slot and screw holes would only need to be 2mm further towards the jack socket to fit tidily.

On the AVRI Telecaster, I got around the problem by forgoing the series, out of phase pickuo combination. I used a Schaller Megaswitch M, circuit SS3.

On Shultz-era American Telecasters, the other end of the Freeway 3B3 switch may foul on the step in the control cavity floor.