Hi,
I've just bought a Mira x. It's a twin humbucker guitar that doesn't coil split.
I really like coil splitting humbuckers! I have a pair of bare Knuckle humbuckers in a Harley Benton that if like to swap into the PRS.
With me so far?
My plan is to get a new pickguard made and do a complete set of wiring to accommodate the coil splitting.
My question are
- are there any particular pots that are better for volume, tone with a coil split?
- are there any 3 way switches that are particularly superior? The three way in the harley Benton tele copy feels loose from new. The 13 year old switch in the PRS still feels right and direct.
- other than a coil switch push pull, are there any other ways to switch a coil split coil split? Mini toggle switches? Any pros or cons to the options?
Thanks for any suggestions
Comments
Q2 Do you intend to use tuned/partial coil splittage or the simple one coil off method?
Q3 If you only require coil split for one or two coil permutations, it might be more practical to access them via the lever selector switch. (This involves an upgrade to either a CRL Superswitch, Schaller Megaswitch or one of the Freeway lever types.)
1) is there any advantage/ interesting sounds if the coil split is independent? All my guitars have had a simultaneous coil split
2)same as above. I think my guitars currently turn one coil off. How can I tell? This is the diagram for the bar knuckle pickups that will be going into the guitar
3)I think I'm going for both coils/ one coil.
Regarding the pots, to my ears going with a partial split darkens the sound a little and can often mean you can just go with 500k pots for both volume and tone (especially if it's a hotter humbucker). Or you can kick in a resistor to simulate a 250k volume pot but you'd need to go with independent splits (i.e. two push-pulls) for that as you have to use the second side of the switch, I think.
You can also use push-pushes to activate coil splits. I usually prefer those to push-pulls.
@philly_q I like the idea of a tort pickguard for the guitar and also my soldering is rubbish- I've never done much. So a new pickguard and bits means I can copy the original wiring and if I cook a component, it won't be the original one.
Mostly it's just for a wee project
Or, if you don't like the push/pull pots (and as you're getting a new scratchplate made anyway) you could add a couple of mini-toggle switches to implement the coil splitting (the Pauls guitar illustrates how it could look).
Neither of those wirings is particularly complex and there are plenty of diagrams out there (and advice on here) to make sure that you got it right.
Mini-toggles are probably easier to see and flick on/off quickly if you're doing it on a dark stage, and avoids the risk of changing a vol/tone setting when you push the knob to split the sound.
The existing p'up selector switch then works the same as now.
Or, you could build some of the options into a re-wired selector switch, but your options are slightly more limited (unless you get into the more complex - like Freeway - switches).
LOL that sounds like me.
Actually I did eventually get round to learning how to solder- quite a lot of the stuff I'd bought and stashed away thinking "Bet I'll never get around to using that" I actually did! About 15 years after I'd bought it! That actually seems to happen to me a lot (not just with guitar stuff)- I buy stuff just in case, think I'll never get round to using it, and then 10 years later it comes in handy.
Granted, I would guess a fair percentage of it is still in the "might come in handy one day" bracket...
Waste not want not
The problem now would be my eyesight, I need varifocals nowadays and on the rare occasions I've attempted any DIY work, it always seems to be at just the right point where I can't focus on it properly....
I've still got loads of pickups and spares though. I might start tinkering again once I've retired in a few years (bring it on!).
I hear you about the eyesight- I'm short-sighted so use glasses for pretty much everything bar reading and other really close-up work. I used to be able to use my standard short-sighted glasses for close work too (when it was too much bother to take them off), but I think your accomodation decreases as you get older (I think it starts getting worse at about 10, lol, but I was in my late 20s before I started to actually notice it), so now I can't read while wearing my glasses. But there's a gap in the middle (again, this didn't used to happen) where it's too far away for my naked eye, and too close for glasses... and that's just about soldering distance, lol. Actually, soldering is probably just about ok, it's that having to take the glasses off makes everything else at a slightly further-away distance harder...
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-maintenance/optivisor-headband-magnifier/
Get yourself some of orbitals head lights