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GSPBASSESGSPBASSES Frets: 2397
edited July 2022 in Making & Modding tFB Trader

  One of these, an overhead pin router.

The screw in between two bolts on the side of the machine is used to adjust the router sideways, there is also one on the other side, these are only used when the machine is first set up. Although I do check regularly that everything is lined up.


 

I’ve been using an overhead pin router for about 35 years, the one in the photo above I’ve been using for about eight years. The photo below is the early version, I built some 35 years ago. Which is basically the same but instead of the router mounted on an L-shaped beam, it’s mounted on a beam across the back of the bench.



 I had the L-shaped beam made by a local company of fabricators, only had to put £50 in the tea fund. The drawings below give all the measurements and sizes you need, I think the only thing I would change is the length of the beam coming out at across the bench, I would add about 50mm. Apart from that I would leave it as it is. The steel box section is made from heavy duty 100mm X 50mm. The positioning of the holes drilled on the face plate have to be accurate to line up with the rise and fall mechanism. 

 


The holes on the faceplate are spaced at 40mm apart vertically, this is to suit the milling attachment I have, this measurement may be different on other milling attachments. 



The cradle that holds the router was made from bits of aluminium I got off eBay. A friend did some machining to clean up the ends of the two arms that point outwards, also machine the hole in the back plate to fit the cradle to the lift mechanism. I haven’t given any measurements to the cradle, as this will depend on what router you’re going to use. But you can see from the photo below exactly how it’s put together.

 


The two holes in the side of the cradle are where the rods go hold the router in place,


The bar going across the front is removed once it's all assembled.


The hole in the back plate has to be recessed to take the milling attachment.





The above photos shows how the milling attachment is connected to the L beam and how the cradle is bolted to the milling attachment.


The lift mechanism is a milling attachment for a Myford7 lathe

 

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/new-milling-slide-with-double-swivel-for-myford-lathes/


 


The above part is disregarded.

 

The last part of this are the pins that are sat in the bench. The ones I’m using are made from aluminium with a ball race on the top, the size of the ball race matches the size of the router bit you’re going to use. The part that is sunk into the bench is also aluminium. The hole in it is 9.5 mm to match the pins that drop into it. I think the next ones will be from made from steel, as the aluminium ones are now starting to show signs of wear.


 These are the pins are use they range from 6mm up to 25mm, the posts are 9.5mm. The photo below is an aluminium part drilled 9.5 mm to match the pins. The hole in this lines up exactly which the router above, if I fit a 9.5 mm router bit in the router and wind it down it will go straight into the hole perfectly lined up.


 Above is the insert insert that is drill 9.5 mm to match the pins, this one is made from aluminium it's just starting to show signs of wear I think the new one will be made from steel.

 

Do you need a pin router? If you’re making guitars to sell and don’t want to go down the CNC route then the answer is yes. A Pin router is very accurate plus excellent repeatability, and very quick to turn out bodies and necks. The jigs you need a are very easy to make and cheap, also very easy to make modifications**. I have shown how to make these jigs in other posts on the forum. The link below shows how to make jigs from start to finish.  

 

https://thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/180676/fano-rb6t-thinline-now-making-the-first-one/p1


** I will be making another post in a couple of weeks, showing how easy it is to modify an existing jig to make a totally different guitar from it. I'm going to modify a Jazzmaster jig so I can make a thinline F hole Jazzmaster with all the contours. 

Your life will improve when you realise it’s better to be alone than chase people who do not really care about you. Saying YES to happiness means learning to say NO to things and people that stress you out.

https://www.facebook.com/grahame.pollard.39/

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