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They’re pretty hard on the speakers if you’re not attenuating it too, in fact if they’re original and working I would think about replacing them with more modern ones for gigging, rather than risk blowing the originals. You can take the pair out without unsoldering the wiring, if you’re careful - fit a whole new loom including a much longer cable to the plug, so you can connect them to the attenuator more easily.
These amps also have the dodgy pull-out voltage and impedance selectors, it’s worth having them hardwired to prevent issues. Check it has screen resistors fitted - they didn’t originally and are very hard on modern valves without them, particularly if overdriven. Most techs will fit them as part of an overhaul, but some don’t...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
flanging_fed “
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
It is worth having it looked over, even if it’s already been overhauled - some techs do a more thorough job than others. The selectors and screen resistors are important, don’t gig it until you know both are done.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I modded one with a master volume (probably sacrelige - but he needed it, it was just too loud otherwise) for a fairly famous player who will remain unnamed . (And not Weller or Bonehead .) He’d already blown one of the original speakers unfortunately…
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
As for "when am I ready?" You'll never be ready. It works in reverse, you become ready by doing it. - pmbomb
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
If I remember correctly the Lead & Bass has the NFB from the 8-ohm tap and the 2104 from the 4-ohm as well.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
When I rebuilt it almost back to stock a couple of years ago I ended up splitting the cathode on V1 as it sounded better and the PCB already has the holes for the components and left out the bright cap on vol1.
Either one will be just fine. I love the Fryette, yes it is an expensive piece of kit but it does its job so well. I like to be able to raise or lower the volume just a bit instead of steps of say 3 dB. In case your amp breaks down (happened to me once), it works great as a power amp as well when combined with a decent preamp (I have a Tsakalis Room #40, a Plexi/JMP in a box).