cutting a slot in a blank tele control plate?

axisus

I'd like to make a Tele control plate with the volume further away from the switch, it's always been a design flaw in my mind to have them that close. Drilling holes is no problem, But I can't think of any way to cut a decent slot? Is there any way to do such a thing? The old school way would be drill lots of tiny holes and try and get a little file in there, but that would take a million years, end up too wide and look really crap (with me doing it!).

Anyone attempted such a thing? Could it be sent to an engineering firm of some sort? I want it in metal rather than any other easier substance.

Keefy

I think that could be done with a milling machine - so yes, engineering firm. They’ll need an accurate drawing to follow.

mrkb

Following - I’ve just made a copper scratch plate for my sons guitar and couldn’t see any way to cut the slot so we used a rotary pickup selector as a temporary solution.

ICBM

Just buy one. Simpler, better and probably cheaper than the cost of the tools to do a decent job!

Göldo do them, either with a straight or angled switch slot.

https://www.goeldo.de/en/guitar-parts/pickguards-covers/control-plates-covers/5764/goeldo-tl-type-control-plate/space/chrome

https://www.goeldo.de/en/guitar-parts/pickguards-covers/control-plates-covers/5766/goeldo-tl-type-control-plate/slanted

spev11

rotary cutter? Dremmel type tool and finish with a narrow file.

Roland

axisus said:

.. that would take a million years ...

Been there. It took just over an hour. Scribe the centre line. Drill a hole, with diameter equal to slot width, at each end. Mark the slot edges with the scriber. A drill a series of holes down the centre line with a slightly smaller drill. That much will take a few minutes. Connect the holes with a junior hacksaw blade, you’ll need to knock out the pin from the end of the blade. Tidy up to the scribed edge line with a narrow file, and smooth with emery paper wrapped around a Stanley knife blade.

Or as @ICBM says, you could just buy one.

Funkfingers

ICBM said:

Just buy one. 

Alternatively, change the way that you operate the controls. 

I agree that, if rotating the volume knob with thumb and index finger, it is too close to the lever switch tip whenever the bridge pickup is selected.

As a hybrid picker, my solution is to roll the volume knob using just the second finger and the tone knob using the little finger. With practice (and big hands!), it is possible to do both simultaneously. Instant Speedy West style volume/"wah" swell effects.

prowla

Would a DeWalt Multi-Tool do the job?

axisus

ICBM said:

Just buy one. Simpler, better and probably cheaper than the cost of the tools to do a decent job!

Göldo do them, either with a straight or angled switch slot.

https://www.goeldo.de/en/guitar-parts/pickguards-covers/control-plates-covers/5764/goeldo-tl-type-control-plate/space/chrome

https://www.goeldo.de/en/guitar-parts/pickguards-covers/control-plates-covers/5766/goeldo-tl-type-control-plate/slanted

I never knew that you could buy them! Interesting although I really want nickel rather than chrome 

axisus

Funkfingers said:

ICBM said:

Just buy one. 

Alternatively, change the way that you operate the controls. 

I agree that, if rotating the volume knob with thumb and index finger, it is too close to the lever switch tip whenever the bridge pickup is selected.

As a hybrid picker, my solution is to roll the volume knob using just the second finger and the tone knob using the little finger. With practice (and big hands!), it is possible to do both simultaneously. Instant Speedy West style volume/"wah" swell effects.

To be honest it’s more about the knob being in the way of the switch for me

ICBM

Funkfingers said:

Alternatively, change the way that you operate the controls. 

I agree that, if rotating the volume knob with thumb and index finger, it is too close to the lever switch tip whenever the bridge pickup is selected.

For me the problem is not turning the volume knob - I ‘roll’ it with the side of my hand - it’s moving the switch from the bridge to any other position *without* turning the volume knob. Or even quickly at all - you just can’t get to it easily. It’s a really stupid piece of un-ergonomic design.

Increasing the spacing helps, but not completely. Angling the switch as well nearly fixes it… but makes it too easy to knock the switch instead! Moving everything down and back like on a Thinline is better, but really the switch just needs to not be in line with the pots. Sadly there’s no way of doing that on a standard Tele.

axisus said:

I never knew that you could buy them! Interesting although I really want nickel rather than chrome 

You can get those too… although they seem to be in the US with daft shipping charges.

BillDL

I once did this using a Dremel and a thin carborundum cutting/grinding disc.  It wasn't for a guitar switch, but the metal was of about the same thickness and type.  I just scribed a line into it so I could follow it with the disc until it had made a deep enough groove of its own.  With the plate clamped to a desk I used the hand holding the dremel as a guide along the edge of the desk.  It didn't take too long and didn't take much cleanup with fine files and emery paper.  Don't try this unless you have safety glasses because it creates a lot of hot sparks.

Sporky

I agree with the milling machine suggestion, in that there's probably someone vaguely local with one who'd do it for beer money if provided with a drawing.

Otherwise a water jet cutter or maybe a turret punch. 

Headphones

Sawpping by buying is teh way to go.  I have fitted a slanted one, that's further back.

However, fitting top hat style knobs (similar to F amp knobs) helps too, as the knob part is much smaller in diameter than the more traditional knurled barrels.

Petrogli

ICBM said:

It’s a really stupid piece of un-ergonomic design.

*Dons flame suit* That pretty much sums up my feelings about the Tele!

My solution would be to mark a line and cut it with a cutting disc in a Dremel (other rotary tools are available), then finish off the ends of the slot with a file.

I have contacted all of the local engineering firms around my area for small jobs in the past. Most don't want to know, those that did wanted £££ for very small jobs.

Cheers,

Neil

WezV

Petrogli said:

ICBM said:

It’s a really stupid piece of un-ergonomic design.

*Dons flame suit* That pretty much sums up my feelings about the Tele!

It's a fair comment. 

Tele's are functional slabs.  Some ergonomic considerations came when the Strat arrived, although I would still question the control layout.  Both are a product of the time they were developed.

victorludorum

3 way on the top bout. Problem solved.

ICBM

victorludorum said:

3 way behind the bridge. Problem solved.

FTFY .

I have seriously wondered about that, since for me it's by far the best switch position, but it would look a bit odd, even if you fitted it in exactly the same place as the capstan on a B-Bender Tele.

dirty_p90

@axisus ; Just in case you settle for chrome and want to buy local 
https://www.axesrus.co.uk/ARUSLTTLEPLT-p/slttleplt.htm

dirty_p90

Oops, They have them in Nickel also
https://www.axesrus.co.uk/ARUSLTTLEPLT-p/slttleplt.htm

Funkfingers

Isn't PRS supposed to be launching a T style guitar in 2023. It would be interesting to see where they put the selector switch.