Jazzmaster bridge question.

MaximumZargon

Incoming JMJM.

Wondering about changing the bridge. Staytrem no longer do the conversion, so been looking at using grub screws, or thread reducers and a regular bridge.

Question:

On a normal JM or mustang bridge, does it sit on the tips of the legs, or the shoulders of the legs? Are the narrow tips just for location, or are they taking the full 'weight' of the bridge?

ICBM

The pointed height screws take the whole pressure of the bridge and are what it pivots on, so they do need to be extended below the shoulders.

My experience is that set up correctly and with the height and saddle height screws threadlocked, the original Jazzmaster/Jaguar bridge works perfectly well and that replacing it is unnecessary - but I know that is not a universally-held opinion.

(I did gig with an original ‘65 Jag for about five years though.)

MaximumZargon

ICBM said:

The pointed height screws take the whole pressure of the bridge and are what it pivots on, so they do need to be extended below the shoulders.

My experience is that set up correctly and with the height and saddle height screws threadlocked, the original Jazzmaster/Jaguar bridge works perfectly well and that replacing it is unnecessary - but I know that is not a universally-held opinion.

(I did gig with an original ‘65 Jag for about five years though.)

The jmjm has a TOM bridge, not a normal JM one, hence wondering about plugging the holes with grub screw or thread reducer. If the tips of the normal bridge take the force then grub screw, not reducer I guess as reducer has no 'bottom' to seat the tips of the legs.

freakboy1610

I did this with mine. Works perfectly.

freakboy1610

PS a regular Jazzmaster bridge sits on the points.

Funkfingers

MaximumZargon said:

The jmjm has a TOM bridge, not a normal JM one.

Stick with the TOM hardware.

If you wish to partially simulate the rocking effect of a JM bridge, either change the TOM saddle material to something lubricated such as GraphTech or change the entire bridge to one with roller saddles.

freakboy1610

 or change the entire bridge to one with roller saddles.

If you decide to do this then I might know someone who has a roller saddle bridge or two for sale in the classifieds 

distressed

The best non-invasive bridge option for JMJM would definitely be a roller bridge.

Seziertisch

I used a set of these to replace a Mastery with a Tuneomatic - https://www.rockinger.com/en/parts/hardware/bridges-tailpieces/fender-style-bridges/436/excenter-bushings-for-jazzmaster-bridges-nickel

There is a difference in sound and feel but I wouldn’t necessarily say one is better than the other.

The Tuneomatic sounds tighter, less full range and has less sustain, the strings feel a bit tighter as well. Lots of great records made with offsets with this mod. J Mascis continues to use a Tuneomatic even though he could “upgrade” to whatever he wanted to.

The bridge on the Rockinger bushings also rocks as there is a little bit of play with the M4 posts in the bushings. I’m not sure whether this is unavoidable or whether it’s down me using a Japanese-made Tuneomatic from the 80s with its accompanying hardware and likely somewhat looser tolerances. The end result is tuning stability which is equivalent to what is had with the Mastery.

TrentGuitars

Chris at Descendant does a conversion kit for these now:

https://swope-guitar-shop.myshopify.com/products/descendant-adapt-o-matic

JD50

ICBM said:

The pointed height screws take the whole pressure of the bridge and are what it pivots on, so they do need to be extended below the shoulders.

My experience is that set up correctly and with the height and saddle height screws threadlocked, the original Jazzmaster/Jaguar bridge works perfectly well and that replacing it is unnecessary - but I know that is not a universally-held opinion.

(I did gig with an original ‘65 Jag for about five years though.)

I did this for years on my Jag/Jazzmaster.... I also tried a regular Mustang bridge for a while...this was all before Staytrem was available etc 

These days I do use the Staytrem as it's less fuss.

jellybelly

I went through this trying to get a Classic Player JM to have a 'traditional' offset bridge (it too came with a ToM).

3 options:
1. Live with it, or put some graphtech saddles on the original bridge
2. Roller bridge
3. Drill out the posts on a Mustang bridge to fit the TOM posts

Option 1 is what I'd be recommending. 

In my case I eventually got a new body from GuitarBuild and stuck all the hardware and the neck on that, plus a standard offset bridge setup. And that is the guitar in my profile pic 12+ years on. 

Like ICBM says, offset bridge is absolutely fine if setup right, and StayTrem is the option to get if you want to solve the issues completely in one fell swoop. 

Seziertisch

This is also an option - https://halonguitarparts.com/product/aom-bridge/

guitargeek62

The Tuffset bridge opens for preorders next week too, it looks pretty good to me

spev11

My JmJm just arrived and has the tunomatic bridge, works perfectly fine, indeed it’s much better than the mustang style on my previous Jazz, the trem is a bit crap still though 

Creed_Clicks

I had one, and the tuneomatic bridge was just fine.