Hi everyone,
So I'm an idiot (this won't be news to anyone) and seem to have stripped the P90 Dogear screw/mounting holes in the body of my Harley Benton SG Jr. I was looking up online about what I should do, and I came across this article here:
https://www.guitarworld.com/lessons/guitar-911-how-repair-worn-out-screw-holes-your-guitar It suggests using solder. That sounds an awful lot handier than faffing around with wood glue and cocktail sticks (it's also less for me to mess up, which is a genuine concern and definite possibility), but does it work?
Also, the article says "solder is essentially lead", which presumably isn't, in the strictest sense of the word, remotely true when you consider that I have lead-free solder. It is decent (I think!) silver lead-free solder, though, around 4% silver IIRC. Will it still work with silver lead-free solder? (Also am I right in thinking that you don't even need to melt the solder, just bung it in there unmelted? Cut to the correct length, of course.)
Thanks for your help,
Dave
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It doesn't really "expand" though, does it? Probably just a poor choice of words rather than a fundamental misunderstanding. The soft metal deforms and squeezes into the space between the threads of the screw and the wood. I would have to try this myself before I could make a judgement on the effectiveness of a short length of solder wire and more traditional methods like cocktail sticks/toothpicks, matchsticks, or sawdust and wood glue. I've used the tapering tail of a cable tie for smaller holes and it works well as the screw's thread doesn't cut all the way through the plastic but makes a thread in it and pushes it in tight against the wall of the hole at one side. I would have thought that a screw's threads would cut through the fairly soft solder wire.
It's not really much "faff" to break a cocktail stick into a few pieces of right length, dip each into some wood glue, and stick into the hole. Wait an hour for glue to set, trim off any sticky-outy ends, and screw the screw back into place ...
Or get a small tub/tube of wood filler.
Completely stupid. The best way is wood glue and a similar type of wood - matchsticks for softer woods, toothpicks for harder ones, or small splinters of the exact wood type if you have it.
Also, the best way is to put the screw back in with the glue still wet, as that compresses the wood fibres and glue to make a very strong thread when it sets. You can still get the screw out because wood glue doesn’t bond to metal.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
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Posted after midday.
That sounds pretty unanimous, thanks everyone- wisdoms and LOLs all round as appropriate
Not an April Fool- I didn't even think of the date when I posted it, and the date on the article is October so I'm guessing it wasn't one either. Is it just me or is it a bit "off" that a "proper" guitar magazine can post an article with such dodgy advice? That's what made me wonder if it was legit- the fact it was on a "proper" guitar magazine website. (Well, that and that it seemed very easy- I thought it might be too good to be true!)
It's specced as "meranti", which I'm guessing is relatively soft- at least judging by how easily I stripped the screws! (I only removed them and refitted them to fit a shim for the P90!) Also the wood database seems to suggest it's relatively soft too. I'm guessing it's a cheaper substitute for mahogany.
I don't have any wood glue so I'll have to buy some- is there any recommended type or brand? I'm guessing wood glue and matchsticks/cocktail sticks are handier than wood filler?
It's not just the easiest and handiest method, it's the best - much stronger than filler, and actually stronger than the 'proper' method of dowelling, unless you use side-cut hardwood plugs. The key is to pack the hole, then put the screw back with the glue wet and not wait for it to dry, so the wood fibres are compressed around the remains of the damaged thread and glued into place.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Just to check, this is the right stuff here? EVO-STIK Exterior Wood Glue - D3, Weatherproof, Extra Strong, Fast Setting, Suitable For All Wood Types, Dries Clear, 250ml : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
EDIT: Or do I need the interior stuff? EVO-STIK Wood Glue - Interior, Extra Strong, Fast Setting, Suitable for All Wood Types, Dries Clear, 500ml : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
Don't do either. The best way is to pack the hole tightly with wood (matchstick, toothpick, other) and glue, break off any excess wood and clean up the glue, then put the screw straight in with the glue wet and no drilling. This is important - the idea is to compress the new wood fibres against the remains of the old thread, just as if you were clamping a glued joint, then when the glue sets you will have made a very strong new thread in the wood.
I've repaired literally hundreds of stripped holes like this, from pickguard screws right up to Fender neck screws, and it's actually the strongest method (other than gluing in a side-cut hardwood plug which is effectively new wood). I tested the different dowelling and/or drilling methods to destruction using a scrap neck once, and the wet-glue/no-drill method was stronger than any of them. Very nicely, it's also the quickest and easiest.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
No, that's right. Just cut the toothpicks flush and screw back in.
Pretty standard stuff.
Thanks for the detailed description of how to do it
And yeah the best way which is also the quickest and easiest is obviously sort of the holy grail...
I've ordered the glue, I guess it'll be a few days until it gets here.
(Also thanks to everyone else for the input, wisdoms and wows all round again )
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I'm actually not 100% convinced it wasn't- at least a bit- like that before I messed with it. I think I mentioned before elsewhere when I got it, but the pickup was a little microphonic at high gain- which (I think!) might possibly be caused by its not being held in place securely enough if the screws were already not holding terribly well. (Of course the microphonics could well have other explanations, too. Even just that I was too close and/or using too much gain!)
EDIT: It definitely sounds fine- the wood I mean. There's nothing wrong with it in that respect, and it's a really nice weight too- though I seem to recall someone else also getting an SG Jr around the time I got mine in that big Harley Benton sale getting one that was fairly heavy!
EDIT #2: I just noticed your thread about your metal top guitar build (it goes without saying, but it looks awesome!), and I noticed you mentioned DRM and its being a bit "zingy" with the aluminium bridge- I changed the bridge an (I think!) alumium Wilkinson wraparound on my Harley Benton, largely because the stock bridge was a bit sharp on the wrist, and while I thought there was a pretty decent improvement in tone, it's definitely a bit zingier-sounding, as you said, in the top end!