Shorter intonation screws for strat?

Mr_Claw

Hi all. 

Are you aware of any shorter intonation screws for strat saddles? 

In order to get mine to intonate, I've got the saddle on the bass E back to the extent the screw is pressed into the string and it sounds terrible - muffled and wonky: goes sharp/flat/all over the place. Looks like it mightve damaged the winds (irritating as all hell as they're new strings!). I'll have to get new strings but don't want this prob again.

I could try taking the saddle off, cutting or sanding the screw back a couple mm and then putting back on; but I may kill the screw that way. Anyone aware of any shorter screws? Think the standard Fender size is 4-40 and a 1/2" long?

Thanks, 
C

ZenOvertone

You can get these at Charles Guitars, I did the same to mine...callaham brand 

elstoof

https://www.armstrongmusic.co.uk/products/short-strat-saddle-height-screw-imperial-thread-allen-key-adjusted-bag-of-4

BobHillman

elstoof said:

https://www.armstrongmusic.co.uk/products/short-strat-saddle-height-screw-imperial-thread-allen-key-adjusted-bag-of-4

Unfortunately, those are height adjusting screws, rather than intonation screws.

ICBM

I would just cut the screw down. If you hold the bit you’re cutting off in a bench vice you won’t damage the remaining thread. Clean up the end with a small file and it should be fine.

LessPaul

ICBM said:

I would just cut the screw down. If you hold the bit you’re cutting off in a bench vice you won’t damage the remaining thread. Clean up the end with a small file and it should be fine.

Exactly this

Mr_Claw

ICBM said:

I would just cut the screw down. If you hold the bit you’re cutting off in a bench vice you won’t damage the remaining thread. Clean up the end with a small file and it should be fine.

That's what I thought. Just unsure if I'd f**k it up or not! 

Thanks! 

Petepassion

I've heard talk of shimming the neck to make it a fraction longer. I may try this on mine as it's run out of adjustment and the intonation is still out

SteveRobinson

Petepassion said:

I've heard talk of shimming the neck to make it a fraction longer. I may try this on mine as it's run out of adjustment and the intonation is still out

Don't do that. If necessary take the saddle spring out or cut it in half.

Petepassion

SteveRobinson said:

Petepassion said:

I've heard talk of shimming the neck to make it a fraction longer. I may try this on mine as it's run out of adjustment and the intonation is still out

Don't do that. If necessary take the saddle spring out or cut it in half.

I've completely removed the springs on the A and E adjusters and both fully adjusted back on the stop. The A is just in, but the E is still sharp.
Does anyone make a modified saddle assembly?

ICBM

Petepassion said:

I've completely removed the springs on the A and E adjusters and both fully adjusted back on the stop. The A is just in, but the E is still sharp.

Does anyone make a modified saddle assembly?

You can shim the end of the neck. It isn't ideal, but it will gain you up to about 1-2mm before the screws won't go into the neck holes - as a last resort you can widen the body holes slightly by using a taper reamer from the neck pocket side, so the neckplate doesn't have to move.

If that's not enough or causes too many other issues, the best solution is a bridge like the Wilkinson VS100 which has greater rearward saddle travel - this is usually the best solution on something like a first-series Fender Cyclone, where they just put the bridge in the wrong place... really.

Petepassion

ICBM said:

Petepassion said:

I've completely removed the springs on the A and E adjusters and both fully adjusted back on the stop. The A is just in, but the E is still sharp.

Does anyone make a modified saddle assembly?

You can shim the end of the neck. It isn't ideal, but it will gain you up to about 1-2mm before the screws won't go into the neck holes - as a last resort you can widen the body holes slightly by using a taper reamer from the neck pocket side, so the neckplate doesn't have to move.

If that's not enough or causes too many other issues, the best solution is a bridge like the Wilkinson VS100 which has greater rearward saddle travel - this is usually the best solution on something like a first-series Fender Cyclone, where they just put the bridge in the wrong place... really.

Thanks ICBM, the Wilkinson bridge sounds like the way to go then.

elstoof

BobHillman said:

elstoof said:

https://www.armstrongmusic.co.uk/products/short-strat-saddle-height-screw-imperial-thread-allen-key-adjusted-bag-of-4

Unfortunately, those are height adjusting screws, rather than intonation screws.

That’ll learn me for not reading threads properly

Petepassion

I filed down the A and lower E nut slots tonight as they were sitting a little too high in my opinion, and with new strings all spot on now, with the exception of the lower E, but it’s so marginal it’s not worth worrying about.