It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
A lot of pedals are biased at half the DC voltage (4.5V) and they swing either side of this. Capacitors are used to block this DC bias reaching the next stage / pedal / amp etc but the larger values needed for a low impedance output stage call for electrolytic caps and these all leak a little bit
Basically these are design faults - there's no reason for either amp inputs to be DC-coupled (a fairly large-value cap in line will fix it without affecting the sound at all) or pedals to do this, since you can have 'pull down' resistors which are a high enough value to not affect the sound, but low enough to allow any charge to drain faster than it can build up.
If it's only some of your pedals, it's probably not your amp. You can easily test if it's the amp with a particular pedal if you put another pedal after it between the suspect pedal and the amp, either a fully-buffered one like a Boss, or any other pedal that's turned on. If the suspect pedal footswitch now doesn't pop, chances are the leak is in the amp.
If you've identified the pedal as the culprit, you can fix it by adding the pull-down resistors - they need to be on the effect circuit side of the footswitch, from the signal path to ground. 1M ohm is a typical value which is high enough not to affect the tone, especially on the output. I would add that one first, and if it still hasn't fixed it, try a 10M on the input as well.
Or just do what I do and never again own any pedals which have mechanical bypass switching . (I know, that does limit my pedal choice a lot, but I'm not completely sure that's a bad thing!)
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
As a minor pedal builder myself, I find the biggest culprit is LED popping, a sudden rush of current is to blame when the LED lights up. There are fixes available (AMZFX site) that slows the current surge but I have not managed to get that system to work myself. It seems to be worse ie louder on boost pedals; the pop seems to get lost in fuzz/distortion pedals.
The only fix I have found, and I only found this out recently, is to ground the input and output when the effect is off. Some rewiring of the 3PDT footswitch required.
I should add that I always use pull down resistors and the LED problem is definitely a separate issue.
My trading feedback: https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/210335/yorkie
Studio: https://www.voltperoctave.com
Music: https://www.euclideancircuits.com
Me: https://www.jamesrichmond.com
As for "when am I ready?" You'll never be ready. It works in reverse, you become ready by doing it. - pmbomb
Think of the footswitch as wrapping around the effect itself.
How are you wiring the footswitch to do that?
Also he uses 2 resistors and I'm assuming both are acting as pull downs. I always thought you just need one.