1/4" panel mount socket for a guitar cabinet?

octatonic

Where would the best place be to find a 1/4" panel mount socket for a guitar cabinet?

I am moving some speakers about and the ones I have are not brilliant quality.
What do people prefer to use?

@ICBM ?

ecc83

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=jack+plate&adgrpid=1186373945832925&hvadid=74148572466728&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=4076&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=p&hvtargid=kwd-74148511352820:loc-188&hydadcr=21593_1857191&msclkid=82e5fad7025d1d350cf79c49d08f100b&tag=mh0a9-21&ref=pd_sl_9emyfj5ci1_p

Go nuts! ^

Dave.

octatonic

Thanks but was hoping for a bit more guidance.

What do people like to use?
I have the plate itself, I just need the 1/4 socket.+ wire.
I've got a few which are spade(with heatshrink).type.

They look a bit like this:



I don't like them much.
Do people favour bog standard switchcraft sockets instead?



I tend to solder directly onto the speaker terminals rather than use spades though.
Also, what gauge wire do people generally use?

Kittyfrisk

octatonic said:

Thanks but was hoping for a bit more guidance.

What do people like to use?
I have the plate itself, I just need the 1/4 socket.+ wire.
I've got a few which are spade(with heatshrink).type.

They look a bit like this:



I don't like them much.
Do people favour bog standard switchcraft sockets instead?



I tend to solder directly onto the speaker terminals rather than use spades though.
Also, what gauge wire do people generally use?

I seem to recall that individual insulated cables stripped out of UK standard 13A cables were perfectly good for such purposes.
* I reserve the right to be comprehensively wrong 

ecc83

"

I tend to solder directly onto the speaker terminals rather than use spades though."

Ha! ICBM have come to a gentlemanly agreement to agree to differ about this! He prefers solder. I prefer the receptacle PROVIDED IT IS DONE WELL! I have in the past cited the millions of such connections in cars, washing machines (the Hoover Keymatic used them with a "cam timer")

If you really want "prurty" you can buy red and black single wire from a car parts shop and twist it with a drill. 8 amp rating is plenty. Otherwise any 5amp + mains cable you have hanging about.

Dave.

ICBM

octatonic said:

They look a bit like this:



I don't like them much.
Do people favour bog standard switchcraft sockets instead?

The plastic type are better for speaker connections - there's a more positive sliding contact for the ground connection.

octatonic said:

Also, what gauge wire do people generally use?

Anything thicker than 'bell wire' is fine.

ecc83

I too prefer plastic jacks to the 'bent tin' variety but NB, those shown are for printed circuit use. The ones that accept wire are better...having a look...

https://cpc.farnell.com/cliff-electronic-components/cl11607/jack-socket-6-35mm-mono-solder/dp/AV28083?st=mono jack sockets

Getting hard to find!

Dave.

octatonic

Cheers chaps.

Sporky

Can you accommodate a Neutrik D-shell one?

https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nj3fp6c

Danny1969

What ever you use  make sure it's up the right way in the cab, so gravity (weight of the cable and jack plug) is pushing the jack against the connector, not away from it. This is important because so called professional quality speaker cables are always oversized in terms of cable used and size of jack so basically too heavy. 

The jack plug was never designed for speaker (power) applications .. it's a post office signal connector. 

robinbowes

You could always do the job properly, and convert to Speakon!

They even do a combo Speakon/Jack chassis socket: https://www.neutrik.com/en/neutrik/products/speakon-r-loudspeaker-connectors/speakon-r-chassis-connectors/speakon-r-combo

ICBM

robinbowes said:

They even do a combo Speakon/Jack chassis socket: https://www.neutrik.com/en/neutrik/products/speakon-r-loudspeaker-connectors/speakon-r-chassis-connectors/speakon-r-combo

That’s a good idea, because you don’t want to be stuck somewhere finding your proper Speakon cable is missing and unable to improvise with whatever you can find. At guitar power levels the 1/4” is actually fine, in most cases you can even get away with an instrument cable, although it’s not good practice. I know, you should have spares for important cables! But this is musicians we’re talking about…

octatonic

OK, If I was to use a crimped connector for the jack socket which socket would I use?

Points for something I can get from Amazon if sufficient quality.

Sporky said:

Can you accommodate a Neutrik D-shell one?

https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nj3fp6c

Not easily.
These are Zilla cabs (I have 5 of them) so they have an oblong back plate that screws in that has just a single hole large enough to attach a 1/4 socket,
I could try to find something that has a screw in panel mount I guess but otherwise?

Edit: Pls disregard, I bought the ones linked from Farnell.

ecc83

"OK, If I was to use a crimped connector for the jack socket which socket would I use?" Did not mean that Octy! You solder to the jack (and add a some heat shrink for a top job) but fit crimp receptacles at the speaker end.

The idea that 1/4" jacks cannot handle speaker power has been mooted before and in general, I refute it. It is actually quite hard to find a current rating for the actual contacts but a Rean product gives the SWITCH contact rating at 3A. Considering the much greater mass of metal for the plug contacts I would suggest a CONTINUOUS rating of at least double that giving a power handling of 144W for 4 Ohms and much more for higher impedance speakers. In any case it is generally accepted that 6A cable is more than adequate for all guitar amp use up to say 200W so why would we need a higher rated plug? Then of course, music signals are NOT continuous, speakers are not patio heaters so the operational rating is considerably higher. I have also never had a speaker jack plug get hot*

N.B. I do not advocate running speaker power through the switch contacts as some designs do for a headphone feed. That does give problems on all but the lowest power, sub 5W say, amps.

Speakons yes, a good advance to the technology.

*Clean the fekkers! A plastic pan scouring pad and a dash of WD-40 will clean the plugs superbly.

Dave.

octatonic

ecc83 said:

"OK, If I was to use a crimped connector for the jack socket which socket would I use?" Did not mean that Octy! You solder to the jack (and add a some heat shrink for a top job) but fit crimp receptacles at the speaker end.

The idea that 1/4" jacks cannot handle speaker power has been mooted before and in general, I refute it. It is actually quite hard to find a current rating for the actual contacts but a Rean product gives the SWITCH contact rating at 3A. Considering the much greater mass of metal for the plug contacts I would suggest a CONTINUOUS rating of at least double that giving a power handling of 144W for 4 Ohms and much more for higher impedance speakers. In any case it is generally accepted that 6A cable is more than adequate for all guitar amp use up to say 200W so why would we need a higher rated plug? Then of course, music signals are NOT continuous, speakers are not patio heaters so the operational rating is considerably higher. I have also never had a speaker jack plug get hot*

N.B. I do not advocate running speaker power through the switch contacts as some designs do for a headphone feed. That does give problems on all but the lowest power, sub 5W say, amps.

Speakons yes, a good advance to the technology.

*Clean the fekkers! A plastic pan scouring pad and a dash of WD-40 will clean the plugs superbly.

Dave.

Got it.

Thanks.
I've done one cab- when I do the second one I'll post a photo, although I tested positive for covid earlier so kinda feeling like it might not be today.

robinbowes

ecc83 said:

*Clean the fekkers! A plastic pan scouring pad and a dash of WD-40 will clean the plugs superbly.

Do not use regular WD40 on electrical equipment! Use IPA or a proper contact cleaner (ironically, WD40 also make a contact cleaner product!).

octatonic

I need to wait for a crimper to arrive before I can do the other end but I've done this.

Sufficient?

ecc83

robinbowes said:

ecc83 said:

*Clean the fekkers! A plastic pan scouring pad and a dash of WD-40 will clean the plugs superbly.

Do not use regular WD40 on electrical equipment! Use IPA or a proper contact cleaner (ironically, WD40 also make a contact cleaner product!).

I have used it for donkeys years. OK, don't FLOOD kit with it but it works well on plugs because it leaves a protective film that prevents further tarnishing. WD-40 is anti-rust so among the FEW things it should NOT be used for is cleaning your brace of Purdeys!

And yes, I have a can of their switch cleaner and it is excellent. Not a lubricant nor rust inhibitor though.

Dave.

robinbowes

ecc83 said:

robinbowes said:

ecc83 said:

*Clean the fekkers! A plastic pan scouring pad and a dash of WD-40 will clean the plugs superbly.

Do not use regular WD40 on electrical equipment! Use IPA or a proper contact cleaner (ironically, WD40 also make a contact cleaner product!).

I have used it for donkeys years. OK, don't FLOOD kit with it but it works well on plugs because it leaves a protective film that prevents further tarnishing. WD-40 is anti-rust so among the FEW things it should NOT be used for is cleaning your brace of Purdeys!

And yes, I have a can of their switch cleaner and it is excellent. Not a lubricant nor rust inhibitor though.

Dave.

Sure, it cleans, and lubricates and protects - that's what it's supposed to do, but the regular stuff leaves a sticky residue that attracts dust and makes things worse in the long run. There are many better options, and we know better now. Best avoided.

ecc83

robinbowes said:

ecc83 said:

robinbowes said:

ecc83 said:

*Clean the fekkers! A plastic pan scouring pad and a dash of WD-40 will clean the plugs superbly.

Do not use regular WD40 on electrical equipment! Use IPA or a proper contact cleaner (ironically, WD40 also make a contact cleaner product!).

I have used it for donkeys years. OK, don't FLOOD kit with it but it works well on plugs because it leaves a protective film that prevents further tarnishing. WD-40 is anti-rust so among the FEW things it should NOT be used for is cleaning your brace of Purdeys!

And yes, I have a can of their switch cleaner and it is excellent. Not a lubricant nor rust inhibitor though.

Dave.

Sure, it cleans, and lubricates and protects - that's what it's supposed to do, but the regular stuff leaves a sticky residue that attracts dust and makes things worse in the long run. There are many better options, and we know better now. Best avoided.

Not in my considerable experience. Note I am NOT suggesting its use INSIDE gear for switch or pot cleaning (although it works well and can save your arse in extremis and all night garages stock it) I am talking about a smear on the metal of a jack plug where it will work to KEEP it clean and tarnish free. And! At the risk of incurring further ire? Dampen a piece of cardboard with it and use it on jack contacts when it will fix the problems you often get with FX loops.

Alcohol will remove every trace of grease and leave the contacts open to attack from O2 and SO2 in the air.

Dave.

octatonic

Question:

Is this ok for guitar cabs?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09MVJV7RG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1