Setting up a Fender 6 Point Trem

not_the_dj

Can someone point me in the direction of a good guide for setting up the 6 point trem on my MIM strat.

It was last set up by a tech a couple of years ago...but I'd now like to have a go myself.

The nut seems fine and I've been keeping the string tree, nut and string contact points on the bridge lubricated, but I've not yet adjusted the trem itself.

Is adjusting it so it's just on the outer two a good idea or not?

daveyh

There's a fairly comprehensive guide on the Fender website IIRC

not_the_dj

daveyh said:

There's a fairly comprehensive guide on the Fender website IIRC

I found this: http://www.fender.com/support/articles/stratocaster-setup-guide/ which suggests loosening the inner screws with just the outer ones tightened. Is that literally it?

boogieman

That's the way I've always done it. You end up with essentially a two point trem. Keep an eye on the outer screws though, they get wear points on them after a while and the trem can get sticky. Just swap the screws round if that happens.

not_the_dj

So what about angling the claw?

Just read this: http://www.12fret.com/content/2012/11/17/the-twelfth-fret-repair-shop-setting-up-a-strat-trem-part-3-action/

Which doesn't mention raising the inner screws, but does talk about angling the claw.

ThePrettyDamned

not_the_dj;404057" said:

daveyh said:

There's a fairly comprehensive guide on the Fender website IIRC





I found this: http://www.fender.com/support/articles/stratocaster-setup-guide/ which suggests loosening the inner screws with just the outer ones tightened. Is that literally it?

I don't think that's the way I'd do it - but I use a wudtone plate and screws, which as a 30 odd quid upgrade, is probably worth it.

Basically, it makes the trem much easier to set up - screw each screw down until it just starts to move the plate, then ease is back 1/8th turn or so. Repeat across all 6 and it pivots smoothly on all 6 screws, reducing wear.

Then set the spring tension for however much pitch raise you want.

Angling the springs makes no difference. Angling the claw won't either - the spring tension from the 3 springs is being applied to a rigid structure, and so is even across the unit.

Tightening the bass side so it "pulls more" loosens the treble side as the bridge angles - which I don't think can be a good thing, especially against 2 (or 6) pivot points.

But I could be wrong. I would definitely consider a wudtone plate, though - the vintage style one is 30 quid, so it's not hugely expensive. The block is the bit that really adds to the cost. The wudtone trem is just really easy to set up - I don't know about fixing problems (there is debate as to whether there were any) but it makes the actual set up very simple.

stickyfiddle

Angling the claw is unnecessary at best, and makes the forces on the pivot point unequal, which will hinder stability if anything. It has no impact on the relative up/downbend of strings.

I have all my pivot screws at equal heights. I really don't see any advantage with having them at different heights unless any of them are too tight

xSkarloey

not_the_dj said:

daveyh said:

There's a fairly comprehensive guide on the Fender website IIRC

I found this: http://www.fender.com/support/articles/stratocaster-setup-guide/ which suggests loosening the inner screws with just the outer ones tightened. Is that literally it?

I first read about that in the Haynes Strat manual, and I tried it with good results. 

The guitar has since been back to a shop for a full set-up/ overhaul, but I think that's the way they did it too. 

boogieman

not_the_dj;404094" said:

So what about angling the claw?

Just read this: http://www.12fret.com/content/2012/11/17/the-twelfth-fret-repair-shop-setting-up-a-strat-trem-part-3-action/

Which doesn't mention raising the inner screws, but does talk about angling the claw.

I can't see any benefit in doing that. All sounds a bit snake-oiley to me.

mellowsun

+1 for the Haynes Strat manual. That's what I follow when I set up my Strat.

not_the_dj

mellowsun said:

+1 for the Haynes Strat manual. That's what I follow when I set up my Strat.

I might ask Santa for that.

ICBM

As stickyfiddle said there is no benefit to either angling the claw or the springs, or raising the inner four screws, *if* everything is set correctly. Angling the springs and raising the middle four screws are a lazy way of avoiding doing it properly in my opinion. Angling the claw is plain wrong as ThePrettyDamned said - all three springs pull on the same block so the force is simply summed, there is no "tighter on the bass strings" or anything.

Gassage

not_the_dj said:

mellowsun said:

+1 for the Haynes Strat manual. That's what I follow when I set up my Strat.

I might ask Santa for that.

Charlie Chandlers book is worth a read too

richardhomer

I'm with @ICBM on the 'raising the four inner screws' thing.

The way I have always done it is to remove the strings and springs and lay the guitar (face up) on a table.

Gently turn each of the six screws until they lift the rear edge of the bridge plate off the face of the guitar - then back it off, until the bridge lies flat against the body again.

You should now find the the arm will move the trem assembly freely, whilst ensuring when pulled back that the front edge of the bridge plate cannot rise up the screws, affecting return to pitch.

The middle screws do not negatively influence return to pitch in any way if they are adjusted as I have described.

tone1

The Callaham website has a good setup guide for the 6 point trem and the above post is spot on! I use 3 springs in the triangle shape with rear of trem plate 1/8 off the body.. Love a properly set up 6 point trem