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Where do you good chaps get your pots, shielded cable, solder etc from ?

And please recommend me a soldering iron & glue gun.

Many thanks
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  • enteeentee Frets: 93
    I was recommended to use Axesrus, when I asked a similar question  :)
    Vox 24, Variax 700, Epiphone Dot Studio (Cats Whiskers pups, custom inlay, custom pickguard), Gretsch 5238T (P90s/B3), Gibson Les Paul Zoot (rainbow), Gretsch 5135 PS, 'Graick' G2312TVR, BarileleBo (electric baritone ukulele G6199).
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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6398
    No, no, one at a time please  (thanks @entee)

    Come on then -- let's see some Soldering Iron recommendations .....
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  • MayneheadMaynehead Frets: 1782
    I just got a cheap set off Amazon for 18 quid. It's got everything you need and I've had no problems with it so far, as long as you keep the tip tinned.

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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 27674
    Looks like mine is discontinued now, but it's something like this;

    image
    From here.

    You should get a range of tips for the iron too.
    Having trouble posting images here?  This might help.
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 27674
    And yes, axesrus usually have a good range and deliver quickly.
    Having trouble posting images here?  This might help.
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  • FelineGuitarsFelineGuitars Frets: 11629
    tFB Trader
    I use an Antex XS25 witha large bit - works beautifully - used that model for 30 years now (burnt out a few too, but they are cheap)
    The big chisel tip is brilliant for backs of pots 
    I have one of the £50/60 Maplin temperature control ones too which is good but I still use the Antex the most.
    The temp control is good if I'm doing PCB stuff though or modifying an amp module

    Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6398
    Ta all.
    Imagine something sharp and witty here ......

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  • mrn1989mrn1989 Frets: 240
    Fretboard Feedback https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/58705/  ALSO Over 500+ 100% feedback eBay transactions 
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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
    plus one on Antex
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 3420
    Another shout out for Antex. I used to have terrible problems soldering and thought it was impossible until i started using Silver solder and a larger tip on my iron.
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  • SassafrasSassafras Frets: 30306
    ^ do you find silver solder easier to use than lead/tin solder.
    I've tried using the lead free stuff but it's horrible to work with.
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  • ChalkyChalky Frets: 6811
    Honestly any cheap soldering iron will do as long as you use lead or silver solder. Lead free solder is rubbish - makes any novice think they can't solder! Expensive soldering iron is simply wasting your money if you are just using it on guitar electrics.
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 3420
    @Sassafras when I started trying to solder pots pickups etc I bought lead free from a local hardware store because it was all they had. I practised on a load of cheap parts and keep failing over and over again.

    I bought some silver solder after someone on MR recommended it and voila I could suddenly solder successfully. I've never tried lead free because the silver stuff works just fine for my purposes.
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  • SassafrasSassafras Frets: 30306
    I tend to buy lead solder wherever I can find it which isn't many places now, so I'll have to give silver solder a try.
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  • ChalkyChalky Frets: 6811
    All of the big chains stock lead free solder only from what I see, probably because of the safety advice around solder. But buying online doesnt seem to be a problem.
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  • +1 for the Antex 

    If you get one, get one with the silicone mains lead. (Slightly more but worth it)

    Its floppier than standard and allows easier movement of the iron as the cable just follows your hand.

    Ta
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72600
    Sassafras said:
    ^ do you find silver solder easier to use than lead/tin solder.
    I've tried using the lead free stuff but it's horrible to work with.
    The added-silver lead-free (which is not the same as "silver solder", confusingly) works almost as well as leaded solder. Well worth the difference in price compared to standard lead-free, which is awful. Look for about 3-4% silver content. The stuff Maplins sell is fine.

    +1 for the Antex 

    If you get one, get one with the silicone mains lead. (Slightly more but worth it)

    Its floppier than standard and allows easier movement of the iron as the cable just follows your hand.
    And is much more resistant to melting it if you accidentally wrap it round the iron :).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Does anyone use flux separately, rather than using solder with a flux core?

    I saw a video which suggested that using separate flux made it a lot easier to get the solder to flow nicely.  But I suspect it would be more prone to go everywhere, so requiring wiping off afterwards.

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  • +1 on Antex XS25

    I started learning to solder last week.  The fact that even I was able to create a good solder joint suggests that the iron must be up to the task...
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  • There is an element of getting what you pay for with soldering irons. I'm an electronics engineer and my experience of the cheap ones is that they crap out on you after a bit plus spares are difficult to come by and they never seem to heat as fast. At work we use Metcals but there is no way I'm going to try and justify buying one as an amateur. A second hand Weller TCP is probably the best compromise.

    As to adding flux this is a good idea if you're re flowing joints. The original flux will be gone do you need something to get it all moving. And the cleanup is easy IPA and a stiff brush.
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