How many different "families", types or classes of overdrive, or distortion or fuzz are there ?
I am easily confused, and there are just so many pedals out there, each with their own "smoke and mirrors" marketing.
I don't mean all the different "flavours" of Tube Screamer variants, but distinctly different sounding FX circuits in each category. (i.e. Tube Screamer vs other O/D -or- Rat vs other distortion types, etc, etc)
Also can you give me a layman's guide to what the characteristics of each are please ?
And while I am asking such noob questions, what is the difference between overdrive and distortion, apart from one being a gained up version of the other ?
Thanks all
edit: slightly re-phrased the question for clarity (¿?)
Comments
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Shit, I'm only half way there........
3 basic types
Overdrive - smooth clipping
Distortion - hard clipping
fuzz.
Although some sell as distortion (MXR Distortion3 for example) which is much closer to an overdrive than a distortion.
Ringleader of the Cambridge cartel, pedal champ and king of the dirt boxes (down to 21)
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
@ICBM's explanation is accurate and clear and I've not really anything to add to that specifically.
My actual opinion on it is that when it comes to drive/distortion pedals there are literally only two groups and most of the pigeon holes are created merely because it's difficult to describe sound to someone.
Group one is your single stage pedals like Rangemasters, Micro Amps or SHOs etc. I know we now classify them as boost pedals but at their extreme settings and biased hot they induce their own clipping. On top of this although I readily use the term overdrive to describe a mild distortion from a pedal, I believe an 'overdrive pedal' should technically be a pedal that overdrives your amp.
Group two is everything else. There are different ways of achieving the same sounds or similar ways of achieving distinctly different sounds, but basically everything beyond a single stage (with the exception of active EQ components) is performing the same job. Stage one overloads the next and so on.
What determines how a pedal tends to be classified has far more to do with not what goes on in the inside but the lack words we have to describe sounds accurately. Generally speaking, light and tight and we say a overdrive. Heavier and tight and we say it's a distortion pedal. Heavy and wooly and we label it fuzz.
You can look at a couple of famous pedal circuits to see how much variation you can get with one approach:
If you take a standard Rat, it was supposedly designed to sound like a fuzz pedal into a Marshall stack. Nowadays we tend to classify it as a distortion pedal. In it's standard form is has a single opamp which boost the signal before it crosses two 1N914 (or 1N4148) silicon diodes connect to ground that create the bulk of the clipping you hear. Swapping or removing just this one part can arguably move the pedal into a different category.
Swap them for germanium diodes (like a Dirty Rat) and you get far more of a fuzz. Swap them for diodes with a higher forward voltage like an LEDs and you lose the compressed distortion and have more of an open 'overdrive' (like in the Turbo Rat). Remove the diodes altogether and you get a booster, albeit one with it's own flavour like the Xotic EP Booster as it ends up driving a JFet further down the line (just like the EP booster). So within one pedal circuit, the most basic levels of ability and just altering one part you can change it into four supposedly different pedals. You could label one a booster, one an overdrive, one a distortion and one a fuzz. If you boxed each up and stuck them on the shelf, never to be opened up and analysed then when people tried them no-one would question why you categorised each as such.
Next look at the Fuzz Face. It's called a 'Fuzz' Face so must be a Fuzz right? No. It's called a Fuzz Face because we used to only have the option of a Boost pedal to drive our amp or a 'Fuzz Box'. When we say "I want a Fuzz Face" we aren't talking about a circuit, we are talking about a classic sound that has become iconic. As some internet wisdom advices you can just use what works but piss around with that 'simple' circuit and very quickly you can stray away from having a fuzz at all.
Most people are aware of 'ideal range' transistors when building a Fuzz Face but besides obsessing about bias not many people are aware of what the impact of different transistors have on the end sound of the circuit. In recent years you are seeing a lot of FFs made with Russian old stock transistors. Being predictably Russian these transistors are in general ruthlessly efficient. As a result where we are used to seeing and accounting for leakage with germanium transistors, most Russian equivalents have none. Leakage is always purported to be a bad thing so surely that's good, right? No, not really. A lot of the harmonic fuzziness the FF produces is due to the leakage and the long sustain we associate with fuzz devices is (in the case of germanium) due to leakage across the transistor keeping them open for the signal to pass when it would usually have been shut out or gated. So swap out like for like value germaniums for leakage free Russian germaniums and suddenly rather that a fuzz you have a tighter distortion. It's not to say it's bad, it's just different despite all values appearing the same.
Similarly with the Fuzz Face, in the sole obsession to ensure it biases correctly you'll see advice to alter the resistors soldered to each transistor collector. You can do this and everything appears to work on your meter but as you drop away from the standard 33K on the first transistor you reduce the drive and reduce the gain in a completely different was to rolling back the gain knob. Very quickly and simply you end up with a two transistor 'overdrive'.
Apologies as the last bit is a bit long-winded but the point really is that in reality the moment you pass a single stage in drive then it's the end sound rather than the type of circuit that determines how we choose to categorise it.
he wasn't as funny as usual though, I hope nothing's wrong.
I wish someone had warned me.
Ringleader of the Cambridge cartel, pedal champ and king of the dirt boxes (down to 21)