Best source of lead solder?

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I see several sources of 60/40 solder on ebay but has anyone done the research to work out the best/cheapest?

Ta!

R.
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Comments

  • hywelghywelg Frets: 4316
    Is that 60Sn/40Pb? Flux cored?
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  • @hywelg - yes.
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  • Hi Robin. Have you tried the silvered non-lead solder?

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  • Hi Robin. Have you tried the silvered non-lead solder?

    I have tried non-lead solder - I don't like it. Also, I am working with vintage amps that use lead solder, so I don't want to mix the two.

    R.
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  • SassafrasSassafras Frets: 30320
    I bought a 500 grm drum of Ersin Multicore off ebay a while ago. Can't remember how much it cost but it wasn't very expensive especially when compared to how much hardware shops charge for those little tubes of coiled up solder. It's good stuff and very easy to work with.
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  • RiftAmpsRiftAmps Frets: 3215
    tFB Trader
    I use Silverline AS15 100g 60/40, pay £3.33 a time. I can build four Princeton/5E3/18w type amps with 100g, works out very cheap.
    *I no longer offer replacement speaker baffles*
    Rift Amplification
    Handwired Guitar Amplifiers
    Brackley, Northamptonshire
    www.riftamps.co.uk

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  • octatonicoctatonic Frets: 33964
    Farnell.
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  • ecc83ecc83 Frets: 1670

    Yes Farnell/CPC still do it I think but don't go cheap! Buy a quality solder. Easier to use and kinder on your tips.

    Even as a service tech and using it at home and weekends, 500gm would last me over a year.

    And yes, Silver loaded Pbfree is good but you still need the higher temperature and some legacy cables are tricky to fix with it. Lead is fine, just wash your hands!


    Dave.

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  • I wouldn't want a lung full of lead!

    Never had a problem with lead free myself.
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  • RiftAmps;882257" said:
    I use Silverline AS15 100g 60/40, pay £3.33 a time. I can build four Princeton/5E3/18w type amps with 100g, works out very cheap.
    Can commercial products use leaded solder?

    Genuine question. I was told by a shop that they had to use silver solder to repair guitars by law, but no idea how true that is.

    I also use silverline. It's pretty good, flux cored so it runs easy. On big stuff like the back of pots, I still use a little flux.
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  • Rapid Online have a nice selection of solders.

    In fact they have a nice selection of everything (electronics wise).

    I use multicore 60/40.

    Large industrial tools, controls etc. are permitted to user leaded solder. I think aeropspace and military may also be exempt (not sure) Everything else (inc. consumer goods like guitars) are required by law to use unleaded.
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  • hywelghywelg Frets: 4316
    edited December 2015
    streethawk;884656" said:
    I wouldn't want a lung full of lead.
    You will not get lead in your lungs from soldering. Flux fumes maybe. But not lead. Indeed you will not get lead airborne by sawing it either, the cuttings are too heavy. But best not to leave the dust lying about and a dust mask is probably a good idea.

    Best way to get lead into your lungs is sanding old (Victorian) paintwork.

    You might ingest some if you handle lead and then dont wash your hands.

    Worst case I've ever seen was an old 1930's China cabinet with leaded light panels which were badly oxidised on the inside and the lead was crumbling. White lead oxide on all the crockery at the bottom. You can get it with secondary glazing up against leaded lights too. Need to be very careful cleaning up the oxide.......
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  • I've been so,during since 1982 on pretty much a daily basis. My favourite has always been the Multicore brand 60/40 Ersin-cored, 0,7mm solder wire. I recently bought some of their non-rosin cored stuff as it was very cheap, but it smells unpleasant and the synthetic flux chars after a short while, meaning you have to wipe the iron tip much more regularly. Avoid like the plague the Aquacore "no clean" solder, as the flux is horrible! Every single test tech in my first job became allergic to it. Imagine your worst possible hayfever x100!
    My wife asked me to stop singing Wonderwall.
    I said maybe.....
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