Nomad's Lap Steel Build - Completed

Nomad

Got the brass from here...

https://maccmodels.co.uk/

The prices are about the best I've found (brass can be scary expensive). Delivery was quick enough (a few days) and reasonably priced, packaging very good.

Roland

Yes, that's where I've been getting mine

Nomad

On with the scratchplate...

I took the tracing I made when I did the template for the body, and sketched in an outline for the scratchplate...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Scratchplate/Scratchplate%2001_zps7xayf7cc.jpg

With the bridge basically made bar the tarting up, I drew around that so that I knew its position, and then drew in the outline of the plate. The outline is quite close to the edge of the cavity in a few places, but bulges out a little in the locations where the fixing screws will go (the X marks - the + marks are the control and socket positions).

This was then taped to the scratchplate material (which has been following me about, unused, for about 25 years)...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Scratchplate/Scratchplate%2002_zpsie1gmu4i.jpg

One end was lifted and some wide white masking tape applied to the plate, and then some carbon paper on top of that...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Scratchplate/Scratchplate%2003_zpsqoov3vny.jpg

I also dug up some spare pickup flatwork to use as templates for the pickup mounting holes and opening. Lifting the paper away revealed...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Scratchplate/Scratchplate%2004_zpsvejodmtn.jpg

This was then cut roughly to size on the band saw, and then closer to the lines using a coping saw and jewellers saw table, followed by various burrs and a little sanding drum on the micro spindle moulder doohickey wot I made...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Scratchplate/Scratchplate%2005_zpsniivutji.jpg

The holes the controls were drilled, as well as pilot holes for the fixing screws. As with the bridge and nut, the final position of this depends on the position of the fingerboard, bridge and nut (want to get the strings passing neatly over the pole pieces for the aesthetic satisfaction aspect). The plate is quite thin, and it turned out that a 1.5mm transfer punch would work, so the pilot holes are 1.5mm diameter.

Here it is so far...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Scratchplate/Scratchplate%2006_zps8jmc4rzu.jpg

Still a bit rough around the edges in places, and I want to fair in some of the curves a bit more. Not sure yet whether to chamfer the outside edge, or just put a small radius on it - I'll play with a bit of scrap and see what I think.

Couldn't resist a trial fit of the bits...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Scratchplate/Scratchplate%2007_zpsglqszlxs.jpg

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Scratchplate/Scratchplate%2008_zpsfzlmparc.jpg

Getting there.

My memory is hazy, but I think the large sheet of scratchplate material cost me 12 quid, so I'll put this bit in at £1.

Costs
Meranti lump: £9
Pickup bits: £9
Rosewood bits: £13.45
Brass bits: £3.24
Strings: £5.60
Inlay bits: £8
Scratchplate: £1
Pots: £13.43
Knobs: £2.92
Socket: £2.57
Wire: £0.50
Screws: £1.58
Sycamore: £0.26

Total: £69.55

Nomad

Did the final bit of the main shaping of the body. No photos of the steps, but it went like this...

Flip it over face down and run a round-over cutter over the bottom edge.
Drill out the machine head pilot holes to 8mm before cutting to the desired thickness to prevent tear-out at the drill.
Mark a line at 15mm below the top, and visualise where the curved part starts.
Cut out a lump from the back of the headstock.
Sketch in the curve on the side of the neck and make a series of vertical cuts from the underside to a bit shy of the curved line.
Cut the series of thin bits off to leave a stepped sloping bit.

Here's a shot of the headstock with the waste material...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Body/Lap%20Steel%20Body%2016_zpsauh8potw.jpg

The stepped area was then worked with the little curved sole planes. I also faired in the rounded-over edge so that it tapers to a sharper edge as it gets nearer to the headstock...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Body/Lap%20Steel%20Body%2017_zpsy1lw6zdv.jpg

Now looks like this...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Body/Lap%20Steel%20Body%2018_zpsdnrcbh9e.jpg

And the body overall...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Body/Lap%20Steel%20Body%2019_zpsfcx20qfx.jpg

With this done, the main shaping is complete. As with the nut, bridge and scratchplate, the next series of steps will entail lots of sanding, smoothing and finessing.

Nomad

After a load of workbench juggling, I'm back to the lap steel. Before the sanding and finessing mentioned in the previous post, I needed to sort out the holes for the bridge and nut.

The bridge and nut were held in place and transfer punches used to mark the hole positions, and I then drilled pilot holes. I also used a pencil to mark the positions of the string slots at the back of the bridge, centre-punched them and then drilled some shallow recesses with an 8mm drill. These are to provide clearance for the string ball-ends, which extend a little below the underside of the bridge. I decided to go with a tapped hole in the bridge, with a small screw from underneath to attach the ground wire.

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Bridge%20and%20Nut/Bridge%20%20Nut%2009_zpsa2fkubys.jpg

The clearance for the screw head is made with a 10mm drill bit, and the hole for the wire to pass through is done with a 100mm long 3mm drill (7 quid for a pack of 5 at Screwfix). Drilling through was easy with my old Stanley hand drill.

I also fettled the slots in the bridge, as described earlier, to make a better path for the strings as they go up to the saddle area...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Bridge%20and%20Nut/Bridge%20%20Nut%2010_zpsx83ztwty.jpg

With bridge in position (better than in the photo), the ball ends hook in nicely. This photo shows the difference that the fairing makes...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Bridge%20and%20Nut/Bridge%20%20Nut%2011_zps4ouxxnpd.jpg

Compared to the similar photo in an earlier post, you can see that the ball end now sits nice and snug in the recess on the underside of the plate.

Nomad

Well, a big leap forward over the last day or so. The fretboard has been glued on, the body stained, and I've started applying oil.

To make handling easier while oiling, I added a couple of blocks of wood to the control cavity...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Body/Lap%20Steel%20Body%2020_zpsjysquixr.jpg

This lets me hold it in various ways while I apply the oil (the whole body is done in one go), as well as clamp it while the oil cures...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Body/Lap%20Steel%20Body%2021_zpsihtc84nq.jpg

Before I started oiling (with Crimson Guitar Finishing oil), I put a lick of boiled linseed on the fretboard because I don't want the varnish-type Crimson oil on the top surface of the board (but I do want it up the sides). If any gets on, I should be able to rub it back with some P1000 Scotchbrite type stuff (from Machine Mart). Here it is just after the second coat of oil...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Body/Lap%20Steel%20Body%2022_zpsstlwabvp.jpg

While the first coat was curing, I did some more on the bridge and nut...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Bridge%20and%20Nut/Bridge%20%20Nut%2012_zpswb667rxb.jpg

Still need to radius the corners of the bridge a bit more. Beyond that, it's a question of how shiny I can be bothered making it (I'd be happy to stop here, but it's a question of what I feel like doing between coats of oil, now). You can see the small hole at the far end of the bridge, which is for the ground connection. I've also put a chamfer on the top surfaces where the strings pass over. I'll leave the slotting until the assembly stage.

You may note that there is no headstock inlay. I decided not to add this, mainly because the desire to get it finished (and have a shot of it) is starting to dominate. I certainly feel like I'm coming onto the home straight, now. The main fettling job still to do is the scratchplate, then solder up the electrics and do the final assembly and setup.

I have some adjustments to make to the costs, which I'll do in due course.

Nomad

Scratchplate is now mostly done (but no photo - not much to see, really). I've still to drill out and countersink the fixing holes, but that will be done later (it stays with pilot holes for now, until the holes are transferred to the body after the strings are fitted).I also have to decide on what I'll do with the edge - choices are vertical, rounded over, or chamfered. Whether or not a chamfer will work depends on how big the countersinks are, so the finishing of the edge comes after that.

While I was sanding the edge after tidying up the curves, I used a fine foam sanding block to take some burr off. Being foam, it flexed over the edge and marred the shiny surface, making dull areas in places. I chastised myself and then got the polishing kit out (an old Clarke bench grinder fitted with polishing mop screws instead of grinding wheels) and did some buffing, which worked a treat.

While I had the polisher out, I changed mops and had a go at polishing the brass nut. Certainly not perfect, but makes quite a difference...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Bridge%20and%20Nut/Bridge%20%20Nut%2013_zpsupqqao8p.jpg

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Bridge%20and%20Nut/Bridge%20%20Nut%2014_zpsfa4bjsk7.jpg

The diagonal streaks on the nut in the second shot aren't marks - they're a reflection of the grain on the workbench. (You can also see the reflection of the dog hole at the top right of the nut.)

I had a look at the body with the second coat of oil well on the way to being cured, and it's taking on a satiny sheen now. Bits with end grain are still pretty matt, though. The plan is to keep adding oil until I either decide it's time to assemble everything, or maybe try some wet oil sanding once there's plenty on (not sure if I want a gloss finish, and not sure if I'd do a decent job - never done this before). I suspect that, once the bridge is finished and the scratchplate is wired up, the tipping point will be reached and bits will be screwed together.

Nomad

Things are moving along quite quickly now.

Rounded the corners of the bridge a bit more and gave it a polish...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Bridge%20and%20Nut/Bridge%20%20Nut%2015_zps5chxki5s.jpg

Then I wired up the electrics...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Scratchplate/Scratchplate%2009_zps2fyojtmg.jpg

...and added the ground wire...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Scratchplate/Scratchplate%2010_zpswdzr13a7.jpg

Then I fitted the machine heads and nut so that I could get an idea of where the strings would lie so that I could position the scratchplate...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Machine%20Heads%20%20Nut%2001_zpsiwyfkecw.jpg

The machine heads were robbed from a 12-string Tele kit that I never built, and I think the smaller buttons are a better fit than the set that I had originally purchased for this project. Since the replacements seem to be the same high quality, I'll charge myself the same £6.49 for these that the first set cost.

I also tried the machine heads aligned perpendicular to the longer sides of the headstock, but decided that I preferred this arrangement. Using the outer two strings as a guide, I worked out where I wanted the scratchplate, and used a transfer punch to mark through the 1.5mm pilot holes onto the body. The body was then drilled with pilot holes for the screws, followed by remioving the bits from the scratchplate so that it could be drilled and countersunk. It was then reassembled and fitted to the body along with the bridge.

After that, it was a case of slotting the nut, fitting the strings and tuning it up.

Here's a few shots of the completed guitar...

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Completed/Lap%20Steel%2001_zps370zkba4.jpg

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Completed/Lap%20Steel%2002_zpsasrtdzjz.jpg

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Completed/Lap%20Steel%2003_zpsti6b9xk1.jpg

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Completed/Lap%20Steel%2004_zpsbmdflxp5.jpg

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/Nomad_Zamani/Lap%20Steel%20Build/Completed/Lap%20Steel%2005_zpsiwfuqrc4.jpg

I seem to have an issue with the electrics. It's like a bad earth - with both controls turned up, there's some noise or interference, and this disappears if I touch any of the metalwork (strings, bridge, pot body, etc. With the treble turned down, it pretty much goes away. Too tired to look into this just now (and too late at night), but I'm happy to consider the guitar completed in any case. I'll put my thoughts on the project and the guitar in a separate post later, but suffice to say, I am feeling rather pleased with myself.

Final adjustments to the costs: machine heads added back in, inlays reduced to just the dots, a token amount for the finishing materials, and I found the tone bar that I bought from Thomann ages ago. (EDIT: Tone bar removed from costs because it's not really part of the guitar, and I'm starting to feel that I don't like the Thomann one anyway. And, scratchplate cost fiddled +10p to arrive at a round number for the overall cost.)

Costs
Meranti lump: £9
Pickup bits: £9
Rosewood bits: £13.45
Brass bits: £3.24
Strings: £5.60
Dot inlays: £4
Scratchplate: £1.10
Pots: £13.43
Knobs: £2.92
Socket: £2.57
Capacitor: £0.85
Wire: £0.50
Screws: £1.58
Sycamore: £0.26
Finishing: £0.50

Total: £68

BigMonka

Have a Wow, that's brilliant - how does it sound?!

paulnb57

And another Wow! Superb!

DartmoorHedgehog

Nice - that looks really good.  Where did you get the scratchplate material from so cheaply?  I was thinking of using an old vinyl record on mine but I think it might be too bendy to support the jack socket.

Nomad

Thanks chaps.

Sounds good so far. I'm still very much getting to grips with playing it, so it's early days. Overall, the tone is pretty sweet. There's top end but not ice-picky. Clear and smooth, I'd say. Strummed unamplified, it's surprisingly resonant and loud - more than I expected. Plugged in, I've been trying it with varying levels of drive and distortion. So far, it seems best with edge-of-breakup levels, sometimes boosted with an overdrive pedal. Clean with lots of reverb sounds pretty sweet. I seem to be using fingers much more than pick.

Regarding the noise, I noticed that I hadn't adjusted the pickup height after putting it together, and raising it has made quite a big difference - still get a bit of noise, but much less.

@DartmoorHedgehog, the scratchplate material was bought about 25 years ago at what was then the going rate.

DartmoorHedgehog

Nomad said:

the scratchplate material was bought about 25 years ago at what was then the going rate.

Thanks, yes I've just noticed the bit where you said you'd had it for ages.  Oh well...