Final finishing of lacquer?

paulnb57

Ok so I have a Thinline Tele Im putting together for th'grandson, it's on it's final coats of lacquer and after each couple of coats, it's had a gentle rub over with 1200 grit, my question is after the final coat it is likely to need another rub over which will dull it, should I use 1200 followed by 2000 grit, then t cut or similar?

Sarge

Personally I wouldn't touch T-Cut, it's too abrasive, my method is wet/dry up to 2500 then use Farecla G3 qith a mop, then finish with Maguires Ultimate Compound with a lambswool bonnet.

Andyjr1515

+1 for Meguiers Ultimate Compound. For the final coat, I personally would only use this. Even 2000 wet and dry is likely to cut through to the previous layers and show witness lines. If the finish has been flattened as well as yours in the build up, I would be surprised if it needed anything more than Meguiers with a bit of elbow grease. Depends of course on the actual finish and how it's been applied... What have you used on this one?

paulnb57

It's Automotive clear cellulose lacquer over red Quink permanent ink @Andyjr1515 (mmmm, where did that idea come from?!) Its my scond ink jobby, but the first was finished with Tru oil, this is my first ever clear lacquer amd its already quite glossy with just a hint of Orange peel, so doesn't need much.....

paulnb57

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii21/paulnb57/image_zpsednsp3dd.jpeg

Andyjr1515

Oooooooh, that looks nice

I would have thought Meguiers and elbow grease.  Make sure you leave it for a couple of weeks to fully harden first, though.

Andyjr1515

Sorry - re-read.  Cellulose as in nitro cellulose?  If so, then each application melts into the previous one and therefore you don't get the same witness lines of previous applications as you do with polyurethane finishes.  In that case, I would have thought leave it to fully harden (minimum 2 weeks), flatten with 2000+ wet n dry used wet (or microweb), then Meguiers to buff up to a shine.  

Anyone else got views or alternatives?

paulnb57

I've always assumed rattlecan Cellulose or indeed Cellulose for spray guns that doesn't need a separate hardener is Nitro Cellulose........Its Automotive paint that Fender used, so probably on this side of the pond we never used Nitro in the title......??...

paulnb57

Photo above is a cheeky impatient loose fit! The (Mahogany) back of the body needs spraying......as you say where the new lacquer meets old on the sides, melts into itself......there are no sanding lines visible in the top....I'm amazed with the way it's turned out considering the low temperatures out on the deck in the garden....

Corvus

Nitrocellulose is the full name (or one of them). In the US car/bike world they call it 'lacquer', as in lacquer paint (not just meaning clearcoat). Nitro is from the guitar side. Over here it was always just 'celly'. Cellulose paint = nitrocellulose = whatever nicknames.

I normally start sanding with 1200, then 1500 and 2000. The 1200 to flat it out, the other grades are just finessing the previous stage to a finer state. Then compounds of choice, there's lots of them. 3M Fast Cut and Fine Cut for me, I've also got Farecla G6/G3/G10 (that's in order of coarseness). If doing it by hand use microfiber cloths, not t-shirts or old shreddies.

paulnb57

Thanks for the replies folks, as the finish is drying it seems to have levelled off so I think in another week or so a polish with one of the recommended products will do the trick.....

Andyjr1515

paulnb57 said:

Thanks for the replies folks, as the finish is drying it seems to have levelled off so I think in another week or so a polish with one of the recommended products will do the trick.....

Looking forward to seeing the finished article! 

paulnb57

Me too @Andyjr1515 it's like watching paint dry!.......

Andyjr1515

paulnb57 said:

Me too @Andyjr1515 it's like watching paint dry!.......

)