Drilling a long hole - any tips or advice?

CasperCaster

Hi all, I am installing a Fernandes Sustainer system into a Strat body, and I am mounting the circuit board in a rear routed cavity behind the bridge. A significant number of wires will need to go between the new rear routed cavity and the existing control cavity, so I need to drill an approx 1/2" diameter hole between the two cavities. My simple plan is to use a long bit, work out the angle and length of the hole, mark the bit for depth (so I can observe progress as much as anything), and try and drill at the correct angle (perhaps with something to act as a guide/ reference) and in the correct direction. My tools for this particular task are currently limited to my Workmate, power drill, appropriate bits, clamps and such like.

So, has anyone else done something similar, and were you successful? Do you have any tips for a successful outcome? Are there other or better ways of completing this job? Do I need other equipment, or can I complete it with the tools that I currently have at my disposal?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Casper.

ICBM

If you haven't routed the cavity yet, try to put it as low down close to the jack as you can - that will keep the hole as short as possible. If you're careful you might even be able to overlap the rear cavity and the jack cavity at the corner so you don't need a new hole at all, just to enlarge the standard one from the jack cavity to the control cavity - there's plenty of room around the lower end of the jack cavity to run the extra cabling. Even if you haven't overlapped the cavities it might be easier to go this way rather than direct to the control cavity.

You do at least have the advantage of going from a rear to a front cavity, so the hole does need to be at an angle anyway, so it shouldn't be too difficult.

Probably no use to you now, but the Sustainiac system is a lot easier to install due to not having the switches mounted on the PCB itself.

equalsql

Don't know much about drilling long holes in wood, but if you need to know about drilling very long holes through ancient stone walls them I'm your man!

Nomad

If you don't have any, a long drill bit, like these...

http://www.axminster.co.uk/fisch-beam-drill-ax890743

...will keep the chuck away from the body and make it easier to get a shallow angle. Protect the body in the areas where the chuck might make contact as the hole proceeds, and at the side of the cavity opposite the entrance hole, where the drill bit is spanning across the cavity.

Also, if you might struggle with the interplay between angle and the heights of the cavity walls on each side, a narrower drill bit is less likely to break through the outer surface. If you're running multiple wires, and don't need 1/2" for connectors, a couple of smaller holes might be preferable.

normula1

Can you turn the connector and fold the cable at right angles to help them through a smaller hole?

Danielsguitars

I've drilled a long 1/2 hole right through a tele style from control cavity to switch cavity like a les paul special or custom

Get your angle right with a shorter pilot bit before using a longer auger bit

I clamped the body in a jig for a floor standing pillar drill to start the hole, you dont have to but it was easier to line up because id already cut the control cavity out then just clamping flat on a workbench
The auger bit just follows your first pilot hole

Hope that helps

CasperCaster

Thanks to everyone for the input so far, there are many really helpful suggestions. Routing for the rear cavity has already started, so choice of location is no longer an option unfortunately, but it is low down/ close to the jack socket, so at least I got that bit right!

The reason I suggested a 1/2" hole is simply the number of cables. I won't be passing the plug connectors through the hole (the individual wires with the crimped contact on the end are easily removed from the plastic shell), but in total there are two shielded cables (each 3-core) for the driver and sustainer intensity control respectively, bridge and middle pickup wires, and seven other individual wires. As the battery wires need to go to the jack I think I will send some of the cables that way (including sustainer intensity), whilst many will still go directly to the cavity as initially proposed - cable length is an issue for the driver cable and it's the only cable I can't readily replace. Anyway it looks like it will be several holes, with some cables going one way and some another.

I have a set of extra long bits purchased from Craft Supplies when they were in Miller's Dale about 20yrs ago - they have long since gone! So it is always good to know where to get replacements from, and Axminster in Warrington isn't too far away. I'll also take the pilot hole approach as suggested above!

Incidentally, it's easy to replace most of the wiring if necessary. The crimp connectors and plastic shells are made by JST (Japan Solderless Terminal) and are cheaply available from CPC Electronics (part of Farnell). The official crimp tool is horrendously expensive but cheap ones are on eBay for £20. And belatedly I found the same type of cables are used in radio control models as LIPO balance cables, and can be adapted for the Fernandes Sustainer.

normula1

Good luck

Danielsguitars

If you're going to the other side of a cavity get a braddle and put a start point for the new hole on the other side, we had to do that especially if it's on an angle and use a smaller bit first