Hi
I am not the most advanced builder and I have not tried a Les Paul before and I am still trying to get my head around varying information on the control cavity as I understand it being routed to two angles so the knobs sit correctly on the carved top.
If anyone has any experience to pass on or good links I have looked at a few but have come away more confused as some seem to go for a standard depth and then doing slight counter sinks around two pots. Other seems to rout all the mahogany and then do two rout's on the maple.
Anything that brings a bit of clarity would be helpful
thanks Jez
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The authentic way can also give crooked knobs, so don't assume it's the best or right way unless you are in the replica game
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Any thoughts would be helpful
thanks
jez
i think that's actually what I did ??? I will check later
edit: I did use long shaft pots
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so is the issue just thickness of wood and length of pot shaft .
or having the pots at a specific angle to the top carve so not just popping through the curve at a straight 90 degree to that curve. What you get with a straight cut all to the same depth.
gill yaron on his build thread talks about it being two separate routs and he calculates the angles based on the finished slop of his carve.
as I am not building an exact replica I will go with the path of least resistance unless the two angled routs are the only way that really works.
again thanks for your time
doung it with a single route and long shaft pots means they sit parallel with the back. However, they can also look wonky if you are used to looking at vintage gibbons, and it's sometimes harder to make them feel as secure. It needs additional nuts and lock washers
both ways work, it's just a choice for what you want
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cheers
for cts pots it gives enough movement for the pot to sit flat on the top carve
(formerly customkits)